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River Wall II

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arresting Arete S 
Big Big Monkey Man T,S 
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 
Box, The T,TR 
Brother From Another Planet S 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 
Introducing Meteor Dad S 
Le Diamant E'ternal S 
Livewire T,S 
Neurosurgeon T 
New Horizon S 
Pocket Hercules T 
Redneck Hero S 

River Wall II Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.22901, -105.34538 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 60,644
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 28, 2001
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The River Wall; photo: Bob Horan Collection.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This great little crag sits immediately below the Buttonrock Resevior spillway and is packed with stellar sport and trad routes. The climbs range from super technical 'slab' routes such as Introducing Meteor Dad (10+) and Le Diamant E'ternal (13-) to pumpy overhanging face climbs; Escape from Alcatraz (11), Red Neck Hero (12-) and Brother from Another Planet (13) to steep cracks with both jamming and edges like Pocket Hercules (11+), Neurosurgeon (12-) and Lost Horizon (14-). Many of the lines can be set up on toprope if desired - take care! An excellent place to spend the day cranking!

Getting There 

Drive about 3 miles down County Road 80 and park at the gate. Walk down the road a short distance passing a toilet on the right. Your first visit continue up the road as it crosses the river and get a perfect view of all the lines. To access the steep lines New Horizon through Pocket Hercules walk down to the river and cross on rocks just below the spillway to the left side of the cliff base. This access might be impassible during high river (May through July?). During very low water it is sometimes possible (sandals, barfoot and-or poles help) to access the pedestal at the base of Escape from Alcatraz. For all of the lines right of Pocket Hercules, starting with Red Neck Hero and Escape from Alcatraz approach via a steep path up a short sandy hill behind the toilet. This approach involves a short bouldery approach on large positive yet slick holds just above the water = warmup? It is also possible to (1) climb the hillside right of the road prior to the toilet or (2) climb the bolted yet anchorless Pooh Corner (5.8) to attain the top of river wall and rappel to the desired side of river wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.2 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in River Wall II

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for River Wall II:
Livewire   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Escape from Alcatraz   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Big Big Monkey Man   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in River Wall II

Featured Route For River Wall II
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber: Jonathan Siegrist. Photo: Andy Mann.

Le Diamant E'ternal 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  CO : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
Although it may appear that the beautiful, bullet slab left of 'Neurosurgeon' is all but featureless, don't be fooled, for there is in-fact a thin, arching seam that offers just barely enough to grab. Begin the route with easy slab climbing on featured rock. Clip the third bolt and start a 30 foot section of amazing stone where grips are few and far between. Ride the varying seam via tight jams, lay backs and odd mini-pinches until you clip the 6th bolt and rest on good feet. Traver...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for River Wall II
Comments on River Wall II Add Comment
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By Bryan Hylenski
From: Gyeongsan, South Korea
Jul 31, 2003
River wall has a classic 5-10d sport route, "Introducing Meteor Dad." If you live in Lyons or are travelling thru, the riverwall is a must stop. The climbs are never crowded, the rock is solid and very well protected. Most people in Boulder feel there too good for Lyons climbing. But River Wall and a few other areas have some classic climbs. If you are going to climb in this area, get Peter Hubbell's Falcon Guide book "Classic Rock Climbs No. 23 -- Lyons Area Colorado." Other great areas in Lyons that are completely isolated, right off the road and great climbing:Mushroom Massif, Piz Badille and Monkey Skull.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Mar 30, 2010
Much of the fixed hardware at this cliff has been replaced with new powers bolts. Thanks to whoever put forth the effort and funds to do this. 'Redneck Hero' has new bolts, and anchors on several walls are new.

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