This great little crag sits immediately below the Buttonrock Resevior spillway and is packed with stellar sport and trad routes. The climbs range from super technical 'slab' routes such as Introducing Meteor Dad (10+) and Le Diamant E'ternal (13-) to pumpy overhanging face climbs; Escape from Alcatraz (11), Red Neck Hero (12-) and Brother from Another Planet (13) to steep cracks with both jamming and edges like Pocket Hercules (11+), Neurosurgeon (12-) and Lost Horizon (14-). Many of the lines can be set up on toprope if desired - take care! An excellent place to spend the day cranking!
Drive about 3 miles down County Road 80 and park at the gate. Walk down the road a short distance passing a toilet on the right. Your first visit continue up the road as it crosses the river and get a perfect view of all the lines. To access the steep lines New Horizon through Pocket Hercules walk down to the river and cross on rocks just below the spillway to the left side of the cliff base. This access might be impassible during high river (May through July?). During very low water it is sometimes possible (sandals, barfoot and-or poles help) to access the pedestal at the base of Escape from Alcatraz. For all of the lines right of Pocket Hercules, starting with Red Neck Hero and Escape from Alcatraz approach via a steep path up a short sandy hill behind the toilet. This approach involves a short bouldery approach on large positive yet slick holds just above the water = warmup? It is also possible to (1) climb the hillside right of the road prior to the toilet or (2) climb the bolted yet anchorless Pooh Corner (5.8) to attain the top of river wall and rappel to the desired side of river wall.
14 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for River Wall II:
Livewire 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Introducing Meteor Dad 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Escape from Alcatraz 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Pocket Hercules 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Redneck Hero 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Neurosurgeon 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Big Big Monkey Man 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
New Horizon 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Brother From Another Planet 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch
Le Diamant E'ternal 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Featured Route For River Wall II
Pocket Hercules 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CO : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
This is the crack 25 feet left of "Redneck Hero". Steep and pumpy this route has good pro and fun movement. The route "Big, Big Monkey Man" splits off about mid way up. Best to do this route when the river is low. i.e. spring, fall. At the top traverse right to a bolted anchor at the top of "Big, Big Monkey Man."...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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