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River Road

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Anasazi Buttress 
Barney Rumble Tower 
Big Bend Bouldering Area 
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Eclipse Buttress 
Indian Chief 
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Mile 0 
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Negro Bill Canyon 
North Big Bend Boulders 
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River Road Dihedrals 
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Titanic Boulder 
Utopia 

River Road Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.6276, -109.4966 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 79,931
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a big spread out area basically encompassing everything along the River Road north of Moab. The climbing is very diverse, including everything from nailups on towers, one pitch cragging, and even one of Moab's most popular bouldering areas.

Approaches range from 1 minute strolls from the car to 1 hour uphill bushwhacks through loose rock. There is a ton of new route potential here - there are at least 10 unclimbed lines for every established route.

Getting There 

All of River Road between Moab and the Dewey Bridge has climbing. Most of the time you just park in a pullout along the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

137 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',26],['3 Stars',48],['2 Stars',42],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',5],['5.8',6],['5.9',20],['5.10',10],['5.11',12],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',31],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',9],['V8-9',16],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in River Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for River Road:
Leftover Lover   V0 4     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Flat Top Boulder
Center Start   V1 5     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Black Box
Slots of Fun   V2 5+     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Black Box
Brown Power   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Black Top Boulder
Circus Trick Right   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Army of Darkness    V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Army of Darkness Boulder
The Grim Reacher   V5 6C     Boulder, 25'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Circus Trick   V5 6C     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Chaos   V8 7B     Boulder, 25'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Hell Belly   V10-11 8A     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Root Canal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   River Road Dihedrals
Artist Tears   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3+     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400'   Anasazi Buttress
Terma   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 330'   Utopia
Spear of Destiny   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Utopia
Lonely Vigil   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Grade II   Lighthouse Tower
Infrared   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Big Bend Butte
The Sorcerer   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   The Sorcerer
Dolofright   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Dolomite Spire
Iron Maiden   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Lighthouse Tower
Sorcerer's Crossing   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 280'   The Sorcerer
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in River Road

Featured Route For River Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Epperson on pitch 1. Photo by Todd Gordon.

Artist Tears 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3+  UT : Moab Area : ... : Anasazi Buttress
The route is on the south side of the canyon right off the road and follows a very thin line that winds up the extremely steep and sheer face of Anasazi Wall. This route isn't very well documented but still seems to attract a lot of attention. Artist Tears has been hammered on considerably, and the already large pin scars on the route have been growing larger with each year. Regardless, the climb is still magnificent and will hopefully go clean soon.P1. The first pitch is considered to be the cr...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of River Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Glory Arch, Negro Bill Canyon
Morning Glory Arch, Negro Bill Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: terma, on wall above north big bend boulders
terma, on wall above north big bend boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Standard campsite view from River Road campgrounds
Standard campsite view from River Road campgrounds
Rock Climbing Photo: tjurunga, on wall above north big bend boulders
tjurunga, on wall above north big bend boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Campsite view, River Road
Campsite view, River Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming off the top when my buddy snapped this glor...
Coming off the top when my buddy snapped this glor...

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