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River Road

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Anasazi Buttress 
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Utopia 

River Road 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.6276, -109.4966 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 392,679
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002
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Description 

This is a big spread out area basically encompassing everything along the River Road north of Moab. The climbing is very diverse, including everything from nailups on towers, one pitch cragging, and even one of Moab's most popular bouldering areas.

Approaches range from 1 minute strolls from the car to 1 hour uphill bushwhacks through loose rock. There is a ton of new route potential here - there are at least 10 unclimbed lines for every established route.


Getting There 

All of River Road between Moab and the Dewey Bridge has climbing. Most of the time you just park in a pullout along the road.


Climbing Season


130 Total Routes


['4 Stars',26],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',44],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',17],['5.10',9],['5.11',11],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',31],['V4-5',13],['V6-7',9],['V8-9',13],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for River Road:
Leftover Lover   V0 4     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Flat Top Boulder
Center Start   V1 5     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Black Box
Slots of Fun   V2 5+     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Black Box
Brown Power   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Black Top Boulder
Circus Trick   V4 6B     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Circus Trick Right   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
The Grim Reacher   V5 6C     Boulder, 25'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Army of Darkness    V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Army of Darkness Boulder
Chaos   V8 7B     Boulder, 25'   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Hell Belly   V10-11 8A     Boulder   Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder
Artist Tears   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400'   Anasazi Buttress
Root Canal   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   River Road Dihedrals
Spear of Destiny   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Utopia
Terma   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 330'   Utopia
Lonely Vigil   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Grade II   Lighthouse Tower
Dolofright   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Dolomite Spire
The Sorcerer   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   The Sorcerer
Sorcerer's Crossing   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 280'   The Sorcerer
Infrared   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Big Bend Butte
Iron Maiden   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Lighthouse Tower
Browse More Classics in River Road

Featured Route For River Road
Clearlight 5.11 PG13***

Clearlight 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An unsung classic. Pitch 1- 5.10 climbing with a little bit of everything thrown in. Loose and silty in places but really engaging, worthy climbing that ends at Metolius rap hangers at a nice stance. (120 ft) Pitch 2- a wild traverse left(about 40 ft)from the belay past a couple of excellent bolts, with a few natural gear placements as well... when you reach the off-fingers crack(the route's crux), climb on up. This pitch also ends at some nice steel anchors- 5.11 PG-13(70-ish feet). Pitch 3- Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for River Road
Photos of River Road Slideshow Add Photo
tjurunga, on wall above north big bend boulders
tjurunga, on wall above north big bend boulders
Morning Glory Arch, Negro Bill Canyon
Morning Glory Arch, Negro Bill Canyon
Campsite view, River Road
Campsite view, River Road
Standard campsite view from River Road campgrounds
Standard campsite view from River Road campgrounds
terma, on wall above north big bend boulders
terma, on wall above north big bend boulders
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