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Rites of Spring 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Leary, Bill Taylor
Page Views: 3,295
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jan 16, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Rites of Spring, 5.10d

You can see the first 2 pi...

Description 

The 'long' trad classic of Pine Creek, with lots of hand cracks and variety. A bit of crumbly and/or hollow rock in several spots (including the crux).


Location 

See Marty Lewis guide. Two raps with two 60m ropes just barely make it down (watch rope ends!). The second rap comes down right in the middle of the sport routes on the Ministry wall, and the creek noise makes it hard to hear, so make sure you yell "Rope!" very loudly and give folks below a bit of time to react before you pummel them with the ends of two 60m ropes dropped from 190' above!


Protection 

Pro to 4" including micronuts/RPs for crux, extra 1.25-3". Two trad anchors, two bolted anchors with Mussy hooks (top of 2nd, top of 4th).



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By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Nov 2, 2007

A note should be made about the third pitch. The out of print orange Bishop book shows the route going out left around/under the roof at the end of the chimney. I tried that and encountered a bail nut/biner. The route actually goes out right from the top of the chimney as shown in Croft's book, "The Good, the Great and the Awesome".

By Jonathan Howland
Jul 3, 2009

Best 5.10 route on the East Side in my view -- every pitch good, and every pitch better than its predecessor, physical and sustained. We thought each of the first three pitches was equally challenging and in the .10a/b range. A single easy stretch is the first 40 feet of P3 -- the chimney.

  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
The technical crux on P4 is protected by a pin. A yellow C3 protects the next move, and a slot at the back of the hand traverse takes a yellow alien.

By Michael Loh
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2010

awesome climb. p1 had some tricky climbing for the shorter person and required some thinking, esp at the crux. I am 5'7" and felt it may go at 10b instead of 10a. I also felt p3 was harder than p4. way more sustained and burly. having said that, the wide section at the end of p4 shut me down for a little bit.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

another fantastic route in this beautiful canyon. varied, interesting, fairly sustained, great views. a real good time.

By maggie-girl
May 1, 2012

Don't remember a pin on p4. Climbed route May 2010

By Adamclimbs
Aug 27, 2012

There is definitely a pin on pitch 4. It was bent from what looked like numerous falls, but it didn't look old or rusty.

By Timbo Stillinger
Jul 7, 2013

Pitch one and two just link with a 70m and make an incredible continuous super fun full value mega pitch.

By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Mar 1, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The third pitch is about the same difficulty as the fourth, both about 10+.