Moderate climbing leads up and right to the crux dihedral. Here the rock is fabulous - solid with superb friction. A very difficult chimney move gets you up into the dihedral, where you can use "dished out" features of the left wall for your feet. I've never climbed a 5.11 crack that required more leg strength or less arm strength - all pushing and no pulling.
This is near the center of the wall. A corner wanders up and right below an overhang to a flared chimney.
emphasis on thin gear for the crack in the back of the chimney
|Comments on Rites of Passage
Jun 27, 2011
Roger - I've never met anyone who has done this route! It looks like protecting the dihedral would be difficult. Given a good selection of gear, is this route fairly safe?
Jun 28, 2011
Such a hard chimney move that I opted for lybacking the arete to the right.5.11a?!I was told the dihedral used to have 3 pins in it. 1 now.Whatever grade you want to call it.It's the hardest route on the wall.