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Rites of Passage 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Battey & Dave Stahl, April 1988
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jun 26, 2011

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Description 

Moderate climbing leads up and right to the crux dihedral. Here the rock is fabulous - solid with superb friction. A very difficult chimney move gets you up into the dihedral, where you can use "dished out" features of the left wall for your feet. I've never climbed a 5.11 crack that required more leg strength or less arm strength - all pushing and no pulling.

Location 

This is near the center of the wall. A corner wanders up and right below an overhang to a flared chimney.

Protection 

emphasis on thin gear for the crack in the back of the chimney


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By Murf
Jun 27, 2011

Roger - I've never met anyone who has done this route! It looks like protecting the dihedral would be difficult. Given a good selection of gear, is this route fairly safe?
By dickcilley
Jun 28, 2011

Such a hard chimney move that I opted for lybacking the arete to the right.5.11a?!I was told the dihedral used to have 3 pins in it. 1 now.Whatever grade you want to call it.It's the hardest route on the wall.