Risky Business 5.10a
| 775 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 25 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Art Messier |
| Submitted By: | Stephanie on Feb 23, 2006 |
| |
Add Photo Printer View
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Follow the thin crack up the arete to a shallow dihedral.
Protection 2 bolts. Small nuts.
| Comments on Risky Business |
|
By david baker From: jamul, ca Oct 27, 2006
| This is the two bolt climb directly to the left of the dihedral. This is a face climb there is a thin finger crack part way up the climb. The crack will take small nuts(and you will probably need them). Continue up to second bolt and rap rings at top of climb. Without small nuts this climb is R rated |
By david baker From: jamul, ca Jan 25, 2007
| Some inconsiderate person chopped the first bolt on this climb so be careful! Several other climbs at Mission Gorge have bolt damage as well. Why would someone find the need to damage some classic routes and potentially endanger people? |
By C Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2007
| My guess is that the recent route vandalism is payback for Art's bolt chopping escapades at El Cajon Mt.. |
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Aug 19, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| Led it today sans the second bolt (or was it the first?). Wouldn't have minded another bolt lower down on the route but it protects with two small nut placements. I used a small BD purple and a small BD black. You get your first nut placement on solid ground, it just takes a while to build up the confidence to climb past it. Be confident on your placements and climbing skills before jumping on this one. The friend of mine who sent me up this says that the first time he led it 6 years ago there was only one bolt. I did not see a missing one (doesn't mean it wasn't there). Maybe it is one of those phantom bolts that keeps coming and going. |
By Kyle Wills From: San Diego CA Mar 20, 2010
| If this is the route I think it is, it has definitely only the second bolt, past the crux section. I placed just the single nut in the small pod, and clipped the second bolt. Still a fun climb. |
By rocky233 Mar 20, 2010
| There are actually 2 very solid nut placements about 3-4 feet apart. It's recommended you use both of them. The lower bolt was not necessary. There is enough gear for someone who knows how to trad climb. It was initially placed by Art, maybe it was removed by him. |
By Josh Cameron Aug 29, 2011
| I agree with Rocky. If you lead this take the two nut placements since that's where the crux is. I used a #1 and a #2 Metolius nut. They were small, but bomber. |
|