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Shit Howdy
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Powerfully Stupid S 
Risk Brothers Roof T 
Shit Howdy T 

Risk Brothers Roof 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Van Betten, Mamusia, Harrison
Page Views: 5,124
Submitted By: John Wilder on Feb 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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The start of the cruxy moves. Way fun!

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This stout roof is probably as neglected as Shit Howdy, but it is well worth the hike, especially if you start your day on Shit Howdy. Burl up the obvious crack system to the roof, continue the burl fest through the roof to the chains.


This route is not located on the Shit Howdy boulder, but rather up and right, just about halfway between Physical Graffitti and Shit Howdy. If you're at Shit Howdy, look for the large hueco (3+ feet) on a cliff a little up and right. Risk Brothers is directly above this on the next major cliff) From Shit Howdy- head up to the crest of the hills and then right along the top, dropping down when the first real choice presents itself. You should see an obvious 3' wide ledge about 6' up running along the base of a cliff. Risk Brothers heads up the middle of this cliff. The best bet is to spot the cliff from the parking lot and keep it in view.


Gear to 3", double up 2" and 3"

Photos of Risk Brothers Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Risk Brothers Roof. Photo by M. Taylor.
Risk Brothers Roof. Photo by M. Taylor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Hansen digs deep for jams on the roof.  mattk...
Andy Hansen digs deep for jams on the roof. mattk...
Rock Climbing Photo: My onsight attempt. Feet first for this section wo...
My onsight attempt. Feet first for this section wo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pure peeeerfect hands!
Pure peeeerfect hands!
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the fun roof! Photo taken by Arno I...
Setting up for the fun roof! Photo taken by Arno I...

Comments on Risk Brothers Roof Add Comment
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By Phil Esra
Nov 29, 2011

Really, really fun, if short. Great little belay ledge. Rap anchors at the top. A little soft for the grade compared to Yosemite. Rewards good jamming technique.
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 22, 2012

A 0.75 camalot slots nicely to keep your belayer on the ledge if you blow the opening moves. Aside from that, 2 #1s & 2 or 3 #3s should see you thru. Amazing route. Short, but for RR at least legit 11a
The climb is in the shade but a short hike from the ridge where you can find some sun. Also worthwhile to walk past the climb and spot it from the floor before picking your approach up the gully
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Dec 30, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun and short climb. Great first 5.11 lead, protects very well and is perfect hands through a roof. Super fun and worth the hike.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 22, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The roof is the crux but don't downplay the start, as it's pretty strenuous off the deck and if you blow it you'll asshat your belayer. Protects well with 2 or 3 finger sized pieces and 2 hand-sized pieces. Also, a 0.75 or 0.5 camalot is good for a redirect above the roof to prevent your second from swinging.

No idea how to get onto the ledge from below, though. My friend and I ended up hiking around to the back and tunneling through between the main boulder and the enormous flake that is next to it. Well worth exploring that route as it is a pretty cool location.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome route! If only it were three times as long. A previous comment recommended 2-3 #3s, which doesn't make much sense: I didn't place a single #3. Two #2s and one #1 for the roof is more than sufficient. Bring a .5 and a .75 for the finger crack before the roof, and maybe another .75 for your belayer.
The crack through the roof has enough variation so as not to make the grade size dependent: both my partner and I had pretty much perfect hands throughout the roof (#2 for me, #1 for her). In fact, whereas I had wide hands at the lip she had perfect fists. The hike up is a trudge, but well worth it. As noted in another comment: wait until you're at the gully directly below the route before hiking up, it'll make your life easier.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
May 4, 2015

More of a thrutch than I was expecting, but really fun climbing.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 29, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fixed #3 camalot is in a fairly bad place up high - right where you'd jam or protect. As a result the climb has fewer options and may feel more hand-size dependent. If someone can take up a cable saw or something else to clean that crap out it would be a community service.
By Tao Techakanon
From: Lafayette, LA
Dec 3, 2015

the fixed #3 is still there and is in the way. My partner tried to get it out but ended up shoving it further into the crack so hopefully it's out of the way now. Great route

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