||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Shingo Ohkawa, Paul Ross, Andy Ross Nov 7th 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||743|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Nov 9, 2012|
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Paul and Andy on summit.Beautiful November day
Rising Son takes a direct line up the SW face of the tallest of tower of the Family Butte known as Mother Tower. Overall the white wingate rock is excellent.
P1) The climb goes up an offwidth that starts up an awkward overhung V groove. Struggle up the crack (two #6 two #5 one #4 friends useful) that crosses the climb that goes up the Daughter Tower to the right past two bolts on this climb to double anchors on the sloping ledge. 80' 5.8 C1
P2) Move into the fine right facing corner which is climbed mainly on cams plus 5 bolts to a small ledge and double anchors. A nice pitch. 140' C2
P3) From the belay, move right and follow eight bolts up the headwall to a mantle then finish up easy climbing to the summit. There is a three bolt anchor in place from the route on the NW side of the tower. 80' 5.6 C1
Descent. Rap from the anchors 100' to ledges on the NW side of the tower. Scramble down trending right to around the north end of the towers.
The climb might go free but it will be no cake walk.
Summit register in cairn. Placed in 2002 by Layne Potter. Several entries from north face route.
Family Butte is about 15 miles from the 1.70 exit 131 on excellent roads that lead to Reds Canyon . Family Butte is marked on the maps of the San Rafael Swell.The Butte is quite obvious from the road and has good camping .The walk from camp to the foot of the towers takes about 20 minutes.
Good size rack of cams double zero to 6".Stoppers 60m rope .Perhaps trail rope. Aid gear.
Paul starting the P3 headwall.
BETA PHOTO: A) To Butte from road.
Starting the second pitch
View from the base of the Towers towards Reds Cany...
BETA PHOTO: The Route. Rising Sons.
Tele Photo top of groove P2
Tele photo Paul on P3 headwall.photo Goodman
Shingo arriving over the headwall.
Due to a late start on the first day (election day...
Chaps on top.Photo Goodman