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Family Butte
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Rising Sons T 

Rising Sons 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
FA: Shingo Ohkawa, Paul Ross, Andy Ross (var leads)Nov 7th 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,136
Submitted By: USBRIT on Nov 9, 2012

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Rising Sons, P1.

Description 

Rising Son takes a direct line up the SW face of the tallest of tower of the Family Butte known as Mother Tower. Overall the white wingate rock is excellent.

P1) The climb goes up an offwidth that starts up an awkward overhung V groove. Struggle up the crack (two #6 two #5 one #4 friends useful) that crosses the climb that goes up the Daughter Tower to the right past two bolts on this climb to double anchors on the sloping ledge. 80' 5.8 C1

P2) Move into the fine right facing corner which is climbed mainly on cams plus 5 bolts to a small ledge and double anchors. A nice pitch. 140' C2

P3) From the belay, move right and follow eight bolts up the headwall to a mantle then finish up easy climbing to the summit. There is a three bolt anchor in place from the route on the NW side of the tower. 80' 5.6 C1

Descent. Rap from the anchors 100' to ledges on the NW side of the tower. Scramble down trending right to around the north end of the towers.

The climb might go free but it will be no cake walk.

Summit register in cairn. Placed in 2002 by Layne Potter. Several entries from north face route.

Location 

Family Butte is about 15 miles from the 1.70 exit 131 on excellent roads that lead to Reds Canyon . Family Butte is marked on the maps of the San Rafael Swell.The Butte is quite obvious from the road and has good camping .The walk from camp to the foot of the towers takes about 20 minutes.

Protection 

Good size rack of cams double zero to 6".Stoppers 60m rope .Perhaps trail rope. Aid gear.


Photos of Rising Sons Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 of Rising Sons on Family Butte.
P2 of Rising Sons on Family Butte.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shingo starting P1...
Shingo starting P1...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base of the Towers towards Reds Cany...
View from the base of the Towers towards Reds Cany...
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on P1
Higher on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the second pitch
Starting the second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul and Andy on summit.Beautiful November day
Paul and Andy on summit.Beautiful November day
Rock Climbing Photo: Tele photo P2
Tele photo P2
Rock Climbing Photo: A) To Butte from road.
BETA PHOTO: A) To Butte from road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P2.
Start of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 bolt ladder.
P3 bolt ladder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tele Photo top of groove P2
Tele Photo top of groove P2
Rock Climbing Photo: High on P2
High on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route. Rising Sons.
BETA PHOTO: The Route. Rising Sons.
Rock Climbing Photo: Due to a late start on the first day (election day...
Due to a late start on the first day (election day...
Rock Climbing Photo: The full gang of sons.
The full gang of sons.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jumaring day two
Jumaring day two
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp
Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: Son rising
Son rising
Rock Climbing Photo: Chaps on top.Photo Goodman
Chaps on top.Photo Goodman
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul starting the P3 headwall.
Paul starting the P3 headwall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay atop P2.
Belay atop P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tele photo Paul on P3 headwall.photo Goodman
Tele photo Paul on P3 headwall.photo Goodman
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up P1.
Starting up P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on P3
Higher on P3

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

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