|The High Dive
P1: Climb a pitch of moderate slab with spacey pro to a crazy needle of granite standing on end. Two-bolt anchor is just to the right.
P2: Follow the slab to the right along the base of the steep headwall to an obvious crack system that will take you to the top.
P3: Head up the crack system. About 20 feet off the slab it splits into two nice hand cracks. Follow it to a mouth-like ledge overlooking the incredible scenery. Belay here on two bolts if you'd like, or climb the next sixty feet or so to the topout.
P3.5: Climb out the left side of the mouth (Or straight out the top if you're a beast) and find a two-bolt anchor directly above the route.
Descent: Walkoff or rappel. You can reach the anchor of the first pitch in one rappel from the top of the route with a 60m and a 70m, but probably couldn't with just two 60m.
Head to the high dive and find a slab at the left edge of the huge roof. Start there. Either walk off, rap the route with two ropes, or leave a couple pieces at the base of the third pitch.
Pro to three inches.
Two-bolt anchors atop pitches one, three, and the top.
Lower Reed Lake provides a backdrop as Matt moves ...
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Great third pitch! pitch one has potential. Gear anchor at top of two is 1" to 3" gear depending where you build it.