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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 35 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Borland, Tracy Borland, Kelsey Gray, Dane Ketner - Aug 20, 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: June - Sep.
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: coldclimb on Jun 18, 2010
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Lower Reed Lake provides a backdrop as Matt moves ...


P1: Climb a pitch of moderate slab with spacey pro to a crazy needle of granite standing on end. Two-bolt anchor is just to the right.
P2: Follow the slab to the right along the base of the steep headwall to an obvious crack system that will take you to the top.
P3: Head up the crack system. About 20 feet off the slab it splits into two nice hand cracks. Follow it to a mouth-like ledge overlooking the incredible scenery. Belay here on two bolts if you'd like, or climb the next sixty feet or so to the topout.
P3.5: Climb out the left side of the mouth (Or straight out the top if you're a beast) and find a two-bolt anchor directly above the route.
Descent: Walkoff or rappel. You can reach the anchor of the first pitch in one rappel from the top of the route with a 60m and a 70m, but probably couldn't with just two 60m.


Head to the high dive and find a slab at the left edge of the huge roof. Start there. Either walk off, rap the route with two ropes, or leave a couple pieces at the base of the third pitch.


Pro to three inches.
Two-bolt anchors atop pitches one, three, and the top.

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Dane Ketner uses up the last of the daylight, bringing up the rear on the FA of Rise in Reed Valley, Alaska.
Dane Ketner uses up the last of the daylight, brin...
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By Dommelhiemer
From: Anchorage
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Great third pitch! pitch one has potential. Gear anchor at top of two is 1" to 3" gear depending where you build it.