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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Borland, Tracy Borland, Kelsey Gray, Dane Ketner - Aug 20, 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: June - Sep.
Page Views: 791
Submitted By: coldclimb on Jun 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Lower Reed Lake provides a backdrop as Matt moves ...


P1: Climb a pitch of moderate slab with spacey pro to a crazy needle of granite standing on end. Two-bolt anchor is just to the right.
P2: Follow the slab to the right along the base of the steep headwall to an obvious crack system that will take you to the top.
UPDATE: As of 7-9-14 step right to a two-bolt anchor just below the P3 crack.
P3: Head up the crack system. About 20 feet off the slab it splits into two nice hand cracks. Follow it to a mouth-like ledge overlooking the incredible scenery. Belay here on two bolts if you'd like, or climb the next sixty feet or so to the topout.
P3.5: Climb out the left side of the mouth (Or straight out the top if you're a beast) and find a two-bolt anchor directly above the route.
Descent: Walkoff or rappel. The route can be rappelled with one 60m rope.


Head to the high dive and find a slab at the left edge of the huge roof. Start there. Either walk off or rappel the route, which can be done with one 60m rope.


Pro to three inches.
Two-bolt anchors atop each pitch.

Photos of Rise Slideshow Add Photo
Dane Ketner uses up the last of the daylight, brin...
Dane Ketner uses up the last of the daylight, brin...

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By Dommelhiemer
From: Anchorage
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great third pitch! pitch one has potential. Thanks to John for adding the anchor below the third pitch. Skip the last mini "pitch"
By coldclimb
From: Wasilla, AK
Jul 11, 2014

Just an update, this route now has two-bolt anchors at each belay, so there's no need to build and climb through an anchor on the third pitch anymore.
By The Shocker
Jul 25, 2015

Top of the first pitch has some nice time-bomb flakes to stem around if you are smart. Wouldn't put gear in the giant levitating flake that is at the top of the pitch. Scary.... Third pitch position is great. Rock quality is killer. Thanks for the anchors.
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