Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Mark Tarrant, et al Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt [details] Submitted By:  Dougald MacDonald on May 8, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Josh in the scary section of "The Serpent", en rou...

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This is the "sport route" that climbs above The Serpent on Upper Redgarden. This is a unique and really cool route that I think should get more attention (and a star in the guidebook). Start with the boulder problem on The Serpent, then follow that sparsely protected route for 30 or 40 feet. When The Serpent trends left, keep going straight up, aiming for a shallow, left-facing corner system. Eventually, you'll clip the first of 8 bolts. From here, the view upward is very disheartening (it looks blank!), but hidden holds keep appearing. The first crux is right where the route veers left under a roof, and the second is at the very hand and is the one of the few hard routes I've ever done where the crux of the climb is downclimbing! Sort of like a harder, leftward version of Le Boomerang.

Protection 

Bring wires, Tri-cams, etc. for the start, quickdraws for the second half.