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The Monkey Skull
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amy, Good Gorilla T 
Casual Corner T 
Fever Dance T 
Fringe Dweller T,S,TR 
Hollow Be Thy Name T,S 
Monkey Trial T,S 
Ripple S 
Skull and Bones S 
Summit Block T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Upside The Cranium S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Pomeroy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: paul pomeroy on May 12, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Zoom of Summit Block, Monkey Skull.


Start on the second tier of the Monkey Skull directly above Upside the Cranium. Clip the first bolt and make a couple tenuous moves (crux) (from a strange (rattly?) little knob with a bouldery bear-hug past two bolts to a finger slot on the right (crux #1)) up to better holds. Surmount the bulge onto a rounded shelf and find easier, ledgy climbing and a hand crack for a bolt or two. Move right and up a moderate face to the base of an obvious water chute. Step right into the chute, layback up a rounded protuberance past four bolts, and mantle up to a two bolt anchor. This makes for a fun continuation of any of the lower routes.

Per J Marsella: this goes to anchors on the summit block shared with Alvino's Variation, 5.8, and Summit Block, 5.10R.

This is a combination of two submissions on the same route.


This is a line of bolts dead center of the face above the big ledge above Upside the Cranium and Sunshine Dihedral.

Per J Marsella: rap from the coldshuts back to the ledge. Rap Upside The Cranium, making sure to find halfway on a 70m rope (it'll just get you down-- or be prepared to downclimb some easier stuff with a 60m).


7 (8-9?) QDs plus two for the closed, coldshut anchor. Small cams or medium stoppers could be used on the moderate face but aren't necessary.

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