Ripped Van Winkle  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Chris Plant Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

DTP sending his last remaining route on the Tower:...

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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This fine line spawned the now classic, and much more popular Goliath. This was the original line up the Towers prominent prow, turning left around the arete at the midway anchors, and continuing to the top along the golden NW face just left of the hanging arete (the upper half of ZWW).

Now largely ignored, this route makes a great victory lap for those who have sent Goliath, but its also a great route in its own right, and would make an excellent stepping stone for those intent on ticking his more famous son.

Location 

Climb Goliath to the midway anchor, then turn the arete, and climb the right-most set of anchors to the top of the tower.

Protection 

Many, many bolts. Use a long sling at the midway anchor.

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DTP on Ripped Van Winkle. Sept. 20, 2008.