Ripcord  5.12a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Jay Smith, et al. Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Jan 24, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Ripcord is a four-pitch adventure climb up the left side of the Brass Wall. The route connects two prominent features (the arête of the first pitch and the corner of the last pitch) with two pitches of difficult, spicy face climbing up less-than-perfect rock.

P1: Begin by pulling a bolt-protected v4 boulder problem to access the striking, featured arête. Easy climbing up this leads to a bolted anchor that is in need of work. Apparently a couple years ago a climber fell on the first moves of this pitch after placing a cam and the force of the fall caused a huge part of this corner to shear off. I don't know what it was like before, but it is still climbable and protectable.

P2: A wandering 5.10 pitch up junky rock leads to an exposed belay.

P3: Very difficult face climbing (5.11+) up crumbling holds (terrifying, but objectively pretty safe) leads to another exposed belay.

P4: Climb the nice, but slightly sandy, left-facing corner through a steep bit and some easy 5.11 to a mass of webbing and stoppers which serves as the anchor. A bolted anchor here might be a nice addition. Rap with two ropes.

Protection 

Single set to #2 Camalot, plenty of draws, two ropes.