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Middle Wall
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Disinclination S 
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Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 
Ripcord S 
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Supernatural S 
Tomb of Sorrows S 

Ripcord 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Horan and Richard Rossiter, TR, 1996. Bolted and led by R. Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 3,913
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Oct 19, 2003

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Peter preparing to flash the crux of Ripcord.
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Description 

Just right of Free Fall is this excellent, short, powerful route, characterized mainly by big moves off good jams and holds. Pumpy climbing leads to a crux deadpoint/lunge at the 4th bolt. A few delicate yet tricky slab moves keep you on your toes until the anchors. Tape may be useful on the index finger of the right hand.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Ripcord Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Archer on the strenuous moves by the third bolt.
Chris Archer on the strenuous moves by the third b...
On his 2nd attempt, Mico Alejandro makes easy work of this incredibly fun route.
On his 2nd attempt, Mico Alejandro makes easy work...
Ripcord.  The route starts just downhill from the right-facing corner of Disinclination and Incline Club. <br /> <br />The route can be top-roped by leading the first part of Disinclination, then breaking left to the anchor atop Ripcord.
BETA PHOTO: Ripcord. The route starts just downhill from the ...
Dave moving above the 4th bolt.
Dave moving above the 4th bolt.
Chris Archer setting up for the moves past the fourth bolt.
Chris Archer setting up for the moves past the fou...
Often mistaking himself for being in an Off-Broadway production, Mico Alejandro is captured here executing a "Jazz-Hand" Dab.
Often mistaking himself for being in an Off-Broadw...
Comments on Ripcord Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2013
By Richard Rossiter
Oct 26, 2003

FA update. Bob and I toproped this route together in 1996. We never got back to it. During the summer of 2000, I returned with Bonnie Von Grebe, placed the bolts and led the route for the first time.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 20, 2004

Despite its length this route kicks a....

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2005

11d, no move garder than V3... unless you miss the big-ol' sidepull out left. Super fun.

By Lon Black
Jul 16, 2005

In response to the AC: "No move harder than V3". I agree, but when you have five or so 11+ moves in a row, ratings usually increase a little higher than 11+. For example, in Indian Creek there are tons of routes that might not have a move harder than 5.10, but the route is rated 5.11 because of the sustained nature. A couple old school guys were out there today, and they thought it was 12 a/b.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 26, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'm not quite sure if this is a 12, but I'll allow myself to be convinced to pump up my ego. The climb is short but is pretty strenuous. The fingerlock at the bottom is better than you think: use your right hand in it with the index finger at the bottom. It locks in there pretty well, or at least enough to get the left hand to the next ledge. The crux for me is matching my hands on the little ledge above the third bolt and then getting my left hand to the bomber sidepull. Then I can take my legs completely off and set them up for the dyno. With the sidepull and your right foot in the proper location, the dyno is easy and not that much of a dyno. Then you are on a big ledge with just a slightly tricky section to follow before the anchors. Some people use intermediates to avoid the dyno, but I think it makes it harder. I originally used a sequence that took me to the right and avoided the dyno, but I felt that was off-route so I abandoned that tack.

By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Agree that this seems easier than 12b. The "dyno" from the sidepull can be done statically, just barely, for guys of average height. It's a jug when you get there. I thought the hardest part was pulling onto the slab above. This is a fun route. Thanks, Richard, for putting it up.

By Tim Fleming
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

My first 5.12! I pulled the crux statically by having my feet high on the wall - there's a great, little, angled band of sharp rock to the left of the 3rd bolt that makes it easier to reach the jug if you're short like me. It's a nice short route.

By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2006

This is a good route/boulder problem. In my opinion, it is a million times better than Freefall.

By Joshua Myatt
Sep 24, 2006

Second bolt needs tightening. The nut can be removed with your fingers. Might need some Lock-Tight.

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I would consider myself average height (5'10" with a 0" ape index), and nowhere on this route did I find a move that would be even close to requiring a dyno or a deadpoint. That said, what's the beta for the lunge? Which holds are "off"?

By dr.natalie
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2008

My first 5.12 as well. Definitely did not use the right hand finger lock, nor did I do a dyno anywhere. Could NOT reach the right hand after the sidepull, so used the left out left then a right hand facing left right above it, then mantle. Topout that way is pretty smooth-although sketch. I think there is lotsa different beta for this route.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
May 18, 2009

haha ignore the crimpy crystal rail above the third bolt...as well as the huge side pull to the left and slightly below the jug. now...jump!

By John Kearney
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2009

definately a little easier for the people with the wingspan. i'm 6'1" and the moves weren't all that hard but a little pumpy. shorter people might have a little harder time but for me it probably went around 11c. jus remember that grade doesn't account for people's height. definately a cool route to project, not too hard to set up the top rope (draws are pretty close together, aside from the techy slab). enjoy!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 16, 2009

I tried to lead this route but kept falling trying to get established above the roof, which led to some nasty swings. It is very easy to set up a tr on the bolts on the slab above. Once on tr I really think the deadpoint to the jug is the onsight crux, but it really isn't that far of a move.

By Michael Loh
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2010

Deadpoints are necessary as you are off balance the whole time, but no need to dyno. Only beta I can give is to not clip the third bolt. The fall is safe unless you fall while pulling rope for the 4th bolt, which probably won't happen because the clipping hold is a huge jug.

By Bal Rau
From: Denver, Colorado
May 3, 2012

Beware of TR-ing this. My rope either got rubbed against an edge or got stuck in an undercling above the roof, but I had to cut 15 feet off.

By slim
Administrator
Jun 19, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Fun route. Would be a good first 12a as it is well-protected and there aren't really any brutal moves on it. Probably the only knock against it is that it is quite short, but it still packs in some good climbing.

By Chrissy V
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2013

I am 5' 5", did not need to deadpoint, and definitely did not dyno...if you use good feet and the holds on the left...technique will see you through....