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Rip Van Winkle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Paul Cobb, Tom McMillan - 1972
Season: march-november
Page Views: 2,593
Submitted By: Will Copeland on Oct 12, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Photo of the East Side Routes

Seasonal Raptor Closure-Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 (5.7)- Climb up a series of cracks about 50 feet to a bolt. Proceed right, below some shrubery. Clip into an anchor built from the shrub and a wrapped rock. Looked solid as of october 2009. The guidebook says there are bolts for anchors but I couldn't find them anywhere.

P2 (5.6)- Climb up 35 feet and up over a roof into a 5.4 section. It was (october 2009)very mossy, wet, and covered in lichen so watch your footing. Pitch ends in a tunnel leading to a very large ledge. Again, be careful, if it has rained recently the tunnel going up will be very slick.

P3 (5.7)- no need for anchor at the belay. climb up a corner (good spots for larger cams, BD-C4 #1,2,3), then over and around 200 feet to 2 bolts for an anchor.

P4 (5.2)- walk/climb to two more bolts about 30 feet up. From here you can walk to the left to the summit trail (1 mile) that takes you back to the parking lot. You could also rap down, but it's much quicker to walk back down and around to the bottom of the crag.

Location 

from the table rock picnic area, walk the trail, take a right down the trail to the crag

Protection 

Standard Rack
BD-C4 .5-3
Metolius TCU's 1-4
BD nuts 5-13
don't need anything out of the ordinary


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By Victor Ortenberg
Oct 19, 2010

We took an alternative variation to the top.
From the top of the P3 chimney/corner, go over the bulge and then left and belay at the base of a damp 3rd class gully.
Climb the gully and fire for the summit through some delicious 5 star bushwhacking. (5.tree+ 160ft) For extra glory and effect on the tourists wear shorts and a t-shirt ;)
By Matt Westlake
Oct 24, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Did just the first pitch 10/24/10. We found a bolted anchor with newish bolts - this serves as the anchor for "A Tall Climb to Be Good On" too. Single rope EASILY gets you down from the first pitch. The bolt midway is shiny + stamped: "2006"
By J-Wright
May 2, 2011

Climbed 5/1/2011, super fun. Linked #1&2 and #3&4 with a single 70m rope. No significant drag, though we did move the belay from the top of two to the bottom of three by scrambling (walking) across the ledge to the base of the 3rd pitch corner. Found shiny new belay bolt and rap rings at the top of P4 near the Lightning ledge scramble and belayed off those. Probably woudln't have reached with a 60 on either linked set.
By Dustin Ferrell
From: canada, Kentucky
Oct 10, 2011

We tried to do just the first pitch this weekend oct/09/11 which turned out to be a nightmare. once the first pitch was completed the rope drag was pretty bad, and there were no rap anchors to be found had to link P1&2 got to the top of P2 still no rap anchors. Rappelled off of a pine tree with sketchy slings (I left a new sling and biner) used a doubled 60, and 70m rope the 60m barely made it
By mworst03
Oct 21, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this 10/20/11 the day after a rain storm and it did not dry well unlike most everything else we did on the east face. The P1 anchors weren't easily seen from the route, but they're there 20 ft up and right from the bolt. If you've hit the tat nest in a bush you've gone to far. From there, we ran almost a full 60M rope to the top of what we thought was pitch 2 which had an anchor on a cluster of pines. After that we did some lichen covered 5th class/bushwacking up to a ledge with a clear trail back to the base. Never did find any more bolted belay stations or clean rock to indicate the start of the 3rd or 4th pitches.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 16, 2012

FUn route with some potential for exciting variations! Another great full length route to the top! Can be a little bushy, but it just adds to the adventure!
By Stuart Parker
From: Missoula, MT
Oct 14, 2012

Once at the bolt, cut right. Don't follow the natural line straight up. I had to bail and leave a tricam in a sea of lichen. The topo in the book is very misleading.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

After the first bolt on P1, go right and up about 15'. You can link up with the anchors above A Tall Climb To Be Good On. From there, trend right toward the brush (tree) ledge, once there look for a tunnel through the brambles to access the rest of the route.
By Brandon H - SC
From: Jackson SC
Mar 9, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I'm with Stuart about the books being misleading. Most accurate thing was the drawing in the Thomas Kelly book. I climbed the first pitch and the 2006 bolt was loose... I had no tools so I finger tightened it. Next person up should tote a tool to cinch it up. I must've aimed too far straight up on pitch two... Easy climbing but run out far above bolted anchor with no gear. I found this route to be true to grade but dirty and lichen covered in spots which often made me wonder if I was off route. I feel that I climbed a good majority of pitches 2 and 4 too far left. Fun though. Cheers!
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Apr 17, 2016

Didn't read any of these posts before hopping on Rumple and it seems we had some similar adventures.

Our story: Standard first pitch was straight-forward, 5.7 move leaving the corner and heading toward the 1st bolt. Go move to the 2 bolt anchor.

2nd pitch: Here we took the books topo, and headed straight-up. (not sure if this is intended). It was heads up slab climbing directly above the bolt for a ways. Above the bulge, There was a big crack system that I followed to the top there were no bolts. I belayed at about 100ft in a crack after pulling the roof move. (Need for 5.7 Lichen run-out slab skills)

3rd Pitch: 4th class slabbing up next to a pine tree rap, but kept going over a step and crawled on to large Tree ledge.

4th Pitch: We head to the far right side of the tree ledge and took a large crack up over a small rock overlap. Then trended up and left a bit and belayed under a large roof on a very large belay ledge. (5.6/5.7 skill)

5th Pitch: We explored left, but it was dirty gully. Instead we went hard right from the ledge. After about 60ft, I pulled on to a mossy grass ledge.

Here we unroped and scrambled up a small chimney on to a romp facing with 2 -3 bolts.

Its was experience, only took a single rack and set of nuts. It was manageable but would have been nice to have an extra #1 or #2 here or there.
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