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Unsorted Routes:

Rip Van Winkle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,071
Submitted By: rdlennon on Nov 19, 2008
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Description 

This is a nice bit of friction on the smaller face to the north (right) of the main face. It is essentially a one-move wonder. Climb the Zipper-like flake at about 5.5. Protect well where it ends, about 8 feet below the top. The climb consists of navigating this blank section. Smear and trick your way through to some uninviting slopers (only one or two moves of .10a) and top out. It is scary above the gear!


Location 

This is on the narrow face to the right of the main face. The flake is an obvious feature.


Protection 

Small cams and nuts. The flake is never wider than green Camalot size.



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By fez
Sep 27, 2009

It's called Rip Van Winkle. Look in Boston Rocks.

By fez
Sep 27, 2009

The Dark Side of the Moon is the small wall before the main face on the trail up near the highway. It's the flake.

By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Mar 20, 2010

Solo.

By Max Antinori
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Very fun route, would be much better IMO with a bolt protecting top crux. As is, it probably gets very few leads which is too bad.

By burlap submariner
Jul 18, 2012

EXCELLENT route, no need for a bolt if you are confident in your gear placement, just place a couple of pieces below the crux and fire it, the fall is clean although slabby and the crux is over quickly.

By Read
From: Townsend, MA
Apr 22, 2013

I second the no need for a bolt comment. Super fun climb, you can get excellent gear in the last part of the crack, and I took the ride before sending and the fall isn't bad at all.

By jim.dangle
Apr 23, 2013

I agree. In fact this is good route for starting to wean oneself from bolts. You can get multiple pieces of easy high quality gear in the crack. The moves up from there are spooky for sure-- I'd even say hard for the grade-- but the gear is at your feet and as soon as you make the move the first move, it gets easier. I think it would actually be harder to stop and clip at the point.

Do people go straight up from the crack or step right to the little shallow nub? I have seen it done both ways but I always head out right. Maybe that's my mistake.

One of my favorite little climbs for some reason.

Jim

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Apr 29, 2013

Jim, I think I've avoided going out right because there is glue/chopped bolt garbage on that face. If I remember, I place my gear carefully, then make a high smear/slanted toe jam with a foot (R/L?), then move my other foot up and then finish up.

+1 for no bolt. This was my first outdoor 5.10, trad OR sport. For Red Rocks 5.10 slab, it's only beaten by Morning Glory. Yeah I call 5.10 on Morning Glory, sorry....

By jim.dangle
Apr 30, 2013

I'll have to try that direct route sometime. I don't remember the glue/chopped bolt though.

Morning Glory is only 5.10 on lead; 5.8+ otherwise.

The "+" is crucial.

Jim

By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
Sep 6, 2013

You guys sure this route isn't more appropriately named:
"Rip Van Winkler" ?
It used to have a 1/4" button head and Leeper hanger about 4~6' above the terminus of the crack, making it a really fun (less scary) lead.
Since it originally had a bolt there someone aught to replace it?