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Sunshine Wall
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Rip Van Winkle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: [Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975]
Page Views: 1,832
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jan 29, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Rip Van Winkle takes the prominent right-angling c...
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Description 

This fine handcrack is located on the northeast side of the Sunshine Wall. The best approach is to climb the first two pitches of Gonzo's Lament to reach the saddle between the Sunshine Wall and the Sunshine Face (Turkey Foot Tower). These pitches are pretty unremarkable, but the alternative is to scratch up the gully between the Sunshine Face and the Poe Buttress. Another possible approach is to climb the Turkey Foot Crack and continue to the saddle. This involves a poorly protected 5.10 corner and some 4th class around left. The crack is distinguished by a significant jog (crux) to the right towards its top. The beginning is somewhat wide, but the protection was pretty diverse, so the wide stuff is unnecessary. On the topos this route is two pitches, and there is a nice ledge to stop and belay. Better, though, is to link this into one long quality pitch with around 30' leftover on a 60m cord.

The rappel is close by, and it is possible to reach a safe ledge with one 60m.


Protection 

Standard rack, doubles in hand size.



Photos of Rip Van Winkle Slideshow Add Photo
A look back while hiking to Cynnical Pinnacle, Rip Van Winkle is in the middle.
A look back while hiking to Cynnical Pinnacle, Rip...
Just past the crux roof move.
Just past the crux roof move.
The fun part.
The fun part.
The route with a climber just below and to the left of the crux roof moves.
The route with a climber just below and to the lef...
Just below the crux.  Footholds on the face make the setup for the pull over the roof a little easier.
Just below the crux. Footholds on the face make t...
Cindy cruising though the crux.
Cindy cruising though the crux.
Comments on Rip Van Winkle Add Comment
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By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 9, 2003

This route was first done by Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975. It was named for the catnap taken on the summit. This route, while beautiful and fun, has some scary blocks on it. The guidebook has it listed as 2 pitches, but can be easily done in one. At the horizontal break where a belay is listed is a 8 foot tall perched block that rocks when grabbed at the top (very large). There is another loose flake you have to climb around mid route. If these blocks were cleaned up the route would be a lot more enjoyable!
You can descend with one 60m rope off the back side, but expect to do some downclimbing (rocks and trees) which is sketchy when snowcovered.

By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Feb 25, 2003

Thanks Kevin! Pretty stupid of me to forget that loose block in my description. I did, however, try to dislodge it while seconding my rope solo. It seemed a little less treacherous than when you are surprised by it on lead.

By Nate Adams
Feb 28, 2007

More kudos to Kevin.
www.safeclimbing.org/areas/colorado/southplatte.htm
Kevin and company replaced 2 anchor bolts in '05.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

You can easily climb west over the top of the Gonzo's Lament chimney and reach the raps on the Standard Route. This is a good idea if it is snowy to the north and the route is not busy. If you plan to rap into the gully to the north, bring some webbing for the bolts which have no chains or rings.

By Cindy Mitchell
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Ho baby, this is a good route. Thin hands at the crux for my partners but sinker jams for me. Good footholds when you need them or jam those tootsies in the crack. Plenty of good rests to avoid the pump.

The small loose block under the big loose block is scary, scary, scary. It pulled out partway and I shoved it back in. I don't know if it will pull out all the way to be trundled and didn't want to find out, because I didn't want to kill my partner below me. You owe me, Roth :)