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The Split Boulder
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Rio's Problem 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Rio
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: andyscott on Dec 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Christoph Riedl on 'Rio's Problem' (v8).

Description 

Start with a good undercling for your left hand and a big slopey gaston a little lower with your right hand. Make a move with your right hand to a sharp sidepull/crimp strait above you. Next come up to another slopey sidepull/pinch with your left. Work your feet up and make a move to an edge, match, then on to easier finishing moves.

Location 

A little farther to the left of Confident Man right over the stream.

Protection 

Pad


Photos of Rio's Problem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun!
Fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Rio's Problem. More people should climb this line.
Rio's Problem. More people should climb this line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Christoph Riedl on the opening move of 'Rio's Prob...
Christoph Riedl on the opening move of 'Rio's Prob...
Rock Climbing Photo: Christoph Riedl finishing up 'Rio's Problem' (v8)....
Christoph Riedl finishing up 'Rio's Problem' (v8)....

Comments on Rio's Problem Add Comment
Show which comments
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Apr 24, 2010

Does anyone have anymore info about this problem? I graded it at v6 just because that is what it is graded on the Boulder Natural map but it feels wayyyy harder than RTL or even Maxim.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Nov 1, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

I updated the map to show V7, so you can change the grade if you want. When I was showed the problem, they told me "at least V6" but they weren't sure. Way harder than RTL but easier than any V8. I might have had different beta though. There are two good feet out left and a higher left sidepull after the first. There were no big moves and my feet never cut.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 7, 2011

Rio's Problem @ 1:00:
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 7, 2011

great video! love your editing style!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 7, 2011

Yeah, well done. Thanks.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 8, 2011

I've long been curious: how the hell do you get down from this boulder?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Dec 8, 2011
rating: V7 7A+

Most people downclimb the offwidth/chimney between Halcyon/My Little Pony and Anorexorcist. I think it takes longer to get down by far.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 12, 2011

Thanks Lee & Mark.

My friend in the video just downclimbed a move or two and jumped onto the pads with me spotting.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 28, 2012
rating: V8 7B

This climb is really good. It's got engaging and technical movement on high quality rock, some unique holds and just the right amount of height.

With a bit more traffic, some of the sharpness would be reduced and the top would stay a bit more moss and pine needle free. In my opinion, definitely v8, and one of the better climbs at that grade in Pawtuckaway.

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