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|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
The route goes up crack systems on the wall just to the left of the entrance to Suction Gully. P1: Work up double cracks until it is possible to step into the left crack system. Follow the crack up to a right facing corner and behind a finger to a slinged belay. ~100' P2: Move left to a crack system that ascends past a white spot. Squeeze through a hole to a tied-off belay boulder. ~100' P3: Work left and climb into a chimney to a belay ledge where it there is an obvious traverse to the left. Pro is sparse for the belay anchor. ~100' P4: Traverse left around a corner and follow cracks and corners to a false summit. Scramble right to the true summit. Pro is sparse on this pitch. One bolt to belay. ~150' Descent: Downclimb south and east of the summit on belay, or rap off the one bolt w/ quick link to a rap slinged tree. Make a 2-rope rap down a chimney to a niche to a rap slinged chockstone. Make another 2-rope rap down a gully to the ground.
By Benjamin Smith
Nov 30, 2008
The first two pitches were pretty good. The third, chimney pitch, was pretty horrible. Lose, sharp rock everywhere and suspect pro placements. The fourth pitch is the worst pitch of climbing I've ever done. There was maybe two pieces of pro I thought would have held a fall in the 180 feet. Holds were breaking off left and right, making the climbing extremely scary and unsafe in my opinion. The summit only has one 3/8" spinning bolt for an anchor. You can back it up for your second if you bring a #1 bd nut and #3 tricam. The view from the summit was good though. Bring extra webbing for the rappel, you will probably want to replace what's there since the route doesn't look like it gets climbed often.
By Shawn G
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
This route is a huge adventure! Loose rock, hard to place protection, committing climbing, and some really cool features make it an amazing outing. In order to avoid getting Suped, I suggest wearing your helmet on the approach and being mindful of rock fall during the entire climb. Find sheltered belays.
Locate the hole in the rock at mid-height, which is the top of pitch two. The route starts to the right of this hole and climbs a forgetful crack on terrible rock to a belay. Pitch 2 climbs a broken crack/face up and through the hole to a belay. Pitch 3 is loose, but your belayer can find good shelter. Pitch 4 is amazing and has the best rock on the route and some good protection too. So good in fact, I would question the R rating of the route. Step left up and around a corner to a face with a couple horizontal placement opportunities. Take a look down from here- the exposure is awesome. Climb the face to locate the true summit and a single bolt belay. Rap/downclimb off the summit block and head east to a rap consisting of several slings. Rap with two ropes to another slung boulder and rap again with two ropes to the ground. Bring your head lamp, standard rack, long runners, webbing/rings, and have fun.