Rines Hill  

the climbing here is great. the only place i know of around here that has vertical cracks . great trad climbs wish they were longer.

hey i love what you guys have down with this area but if i'm not mistaken all the routes were set by Jon Fouser and a few Brewster kids in 2000. they didn't bolt anything they just had al natural anchors. therefore, you guys don't have the first ascents but if i'm not mistaken you guys do have some of the first free ascents.

To get technical this area was climbed frequently in the 70's by Bob Varney and friends.So Jon Fouser may have a few FA's but very unlikly.That is why I don't put first ascents on the routes I post unless I scrub 20 or so years of dirt and plant life off of it,or know from the source that they have the first ascent.And knowing chinos (Jon) he is very informed at the routes that he post.

boys, boys, boys..... I posted these routes to document them, and let people know about the area. I gave the routes discriptive names and did not post a first ascent for obvious reasons (old bolts, cracks). The overhanging wall has some FA's, but we will stick to the theme....
peace
-chinos-

ya sorry for being such an ignorant person and i do realize that this is not all about who has the first Ascent. its climbing and were are here to inform the community. now reading my post i see that it was not reasonable for me to post it. sorry for trashing you jon. so lets stick to the peace you talk of.

No problem here Patrick,first ascent are a touchy subject because there is always someone who says that they were here first.I will be out there tomorrow to Friday after 4:15 if you want to get out there and climb.

GPS coordinates N43 32.154 W71 10.969

There is a new route up with one bolt and top anchors, felt like a 5.7. Anyone know what this is?

joshua i think i know what climb you are talking about. if it is the one with the bold about 15 feet up it was cleaned and bolted by Brad white for the summer program at Brewster Academy over last summer.

by the way does anyone now who but chains and or who bolted the anchor on the top of the "amphitheater" area? just about 50 ft climbers right of dyke with a heart

I put the chains on middle crack to get your rope down eaiser so you dont have to walk all the way around.Tne bolts have been there for years.

Joshua how reliable are the rap rings on the chains you put up on middle crack?

Brand new just got them that day.They hold up to 1750lbs said the tag.So as long as your only lowering off there shouldn't be a problem.

I hope you are joking. If not, somebody rip that crap out of there and get some 1/2" quicklinks, or at least 3/8". Aluminum rap rings are trash.

I am trying to be helpful here; I have read that these days most developers consider 3000 pounds (or 14 kN) to be the minimum requirement for a single anchor piece and almost all rap stations have two or more of these pieces. 1/2" plated steel quick link has 3200 pounds rating I believe and 3/8" SS quick link has about the same. This is how Mark came up with his recommendations of 1/2" or 3/8".

I just saw that REI sells rap rings made from a single piece of Al (no joint). These have a rating of > 15 kN each. But with all Al rings, abrasion (think dirt and sand on rope running through the rings) can be a real hazard, no matter what the rating is when they are new.

Update: I just found 7/16" steel rap rings from Fixe (8000+ pounds rating) for the same price as Al rap rings from REI. You might want to use the steel ones if your heart is set on rings, and not quick links. Mark, I saw and rapped off quite a few of these Fixe steel rings down at RRG last year. They are very widely used down there.

Stay safe.

Thanks, Soon. Yes, those Fixe steel rings are very nice. If going on the ends of chain, you will need a quicklink on each also to connect the rings. If no chain is needed, then a quicklink and ring on each bolt is a great set up.

If those aluminum rings Soon mentions are the ones I am thinking of, they are fat and pretty strong, but they are hollow, so can not handle much wear at all, as he mentioned. I don't see the point in them except maybe to carry on a long adventure climb where you may have to set up an emergency rap anchor.

The 1/2" quicklinks are relatively cheap, can be found at most hardware stores, have enough thickness to handle a lot of wear, and are easily replaceable. I have also used single links of 1/2" logging chain on the bottom as an alternative to the Fixe rings.

Anyone know what the two routes to the left of moss face and right of standard route are? The left of the two has one bolt and the right f the two has two bolts... The left hand one has a fixed anchor. Any help will be great help!

Well they are two routes bolted by Brad White from North Conway for the Brewster kids,I dont know there names but they go about 5.7,5.8.

Cool, I climbed them he other day and I plan on adding the to the database, if anyone knows the names please let me know!

hey matt, the route with one bolt is called Dirty Bird and the one with two bolts is called the Buddha. glad to see people in the area. check out the other crags!

Thanks for the info! I will post the other routes soon, as for the other areas I have hiked out to Mt. Molly and Longstack and am eagerly awaiting climbing at both!

I have climb all the route at Rines under 5.10 now and I have to say my favorites are Casual Crack, Layback Cracks, Right Ramp (for the spice a the beginning;) )

Great climbing! I added a rap station behind Casual Crack/Standard Route - independent webbing loops but only 1 rap ring. If anyone wants to throw a quicklink on for redundancy, I’d appreciate it.