Rimjob V7-8
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Jables cruxing. Photo: L. Bowlin.
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Description This is the sds for Jaws Arete. It adds 4 BURLY moves to the stand start. Start in an obvious sit start on the arete on good holds, make long moves to crimps and an even longer cross move to a pinch on the arete, match on the bump (stand start hold), and finish out the stand start.
Location This is at the opposite end of the formation from Quarter Inch Master.
Protection Pads, good spotter.
BETA PHOTO: Red line into the green line. Photo: L. Bowlin.
| Slopes.
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By Kegan Minock From: colorado springs Apr 7, 2011 rating: V10-
| This is a really cool line! Got every move except sticking the nasty sloper near the beginning. It's going down soon. |
By Kegan Minock From: colorado springs May 4, 2011 rating: V10-
| So quick question... is this still unsent? |
By Caleb Justice May 7, 2011 rating: V8
| Think I just got FA on this thing today, great problem. |
By Will Anglin From: Sykesville, MD May 8, 2011 rating: V8
| Nice send, Caleb! What's it called? |
By Kegan Minock From: colorado springs May 9, 2011 rating: V10-
| Caleb named it Attack of the Bongos. |
By Will Anglin From: Sykesville, MD Nov 8, 2011 rating: V8
| I think this is borderline V8/9. It only took me 2 tries. Definitely condition dependent. |
By Kipp Schorr Nov 22, 2011 rating: V7-8
| What's up, dudes? I was randomly looking through the ol' Hartman's area stuff and saw this line. I climbed this thing from the low back in '05 or '06. I probably didn't do it first, as a lot of hardmen were around lonnng before I was there, but we jokingly named it 'Rimjob' and thought it was around V7/8ish. Just a little heads up on this great problem, not many good slopey problems at Hartmans, and this was imo one of the best! Seems like you guys are putting up a lot of quality stuff in the area, so great to see! Keep it up! EDIT = This wasn't meant to be a "calling you out" comment, sorry if it came across as that. Just wanted to give a little info on this great problem. Nice work regardless, keep crushing! |
By Will Anglin From: Sykesville, MD Dec 2, 2011 rating: V8
| Haha, no worries, Kipp! Didn't take it that way at all. Most of us are operating under the assumption that everything we have done could very well have been sent decades ago. I always appreciate info. I would totally switch you to the FA (you being the earliest ascent we now know of), but someone out of the valley added this route, so I can't (perhaps and admin could change that?). If you have anymore FA info and such, let me know. This really is a awesome problem, really unique, great send! |
By Kipp Schorr Dec 7, 2011 rating: V7-8
| Word, Willa. So glad to see there is some new development happening in the valley in terms of bouldering. I knew some awesome stuff would go down in Lost Canyon as well, never made it out there enough (too much trad climbing while I lived in Gunny). Also, good luck on that sport route, thing looks rowdy. Have to check it out when I'm back through that way. One other question, did someone ever climb that super pretty red face over by that HOFNAR problem? I tried it a little bit and got super close. Thing was definitely one of the better lines at Hartman's. I remember Duffy trying it as well. If not, get after it! |
By Will Anglin From: Sykesville, MD Dec 7, 2011 rating: V8
| I think Duffy did end up sending that. Not sure how hard (I haven't tried it), but it sure is pretty! |
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