|The Bridger Jacks
This is a great route! As Cornachionne (sp?) says in his guide, "every pitch has character and excitement." The route is located on the west side of the Bridgers and summits the Bridger Jack Butte. As far as I remember, all of the pitches were less then 100'.
P1: Great hands splitter that starts off with 2.5 Friends and goes to #2 Camalots.
P2: Contrary to Cornachionne's description of this pitch, it is not dangerous or "r" rated. I can't remember exactly, but there might not be a fixed anchor at this belay and available pro might be less then perfect. Can't remember exactly, though. The crux is a bouldery sequence right off the belay, protected by good gear (finger piece). If you did blow this sequence, you would end up sitting on your belayer's head. Some people might find the low angle face climbing afterwards a little spicey, but there is definitely an easy way (and a hard way). My suggestion is to stay on the right side and not get lured out onto the face.
P3: This is where the fun really begins. Tunnel behind the pillar till you reach a gaping offwidth crack. Stem up until you can stand on the pillar and you are staring at the crack. Right here is a good place to use the #4 Camalot, if you brought it. I didn't have one, and had to push a #3.5 Camalot to a tipped out position to provide a little mental security for a slightly akward lunge into the offwidth. After one or two moves, you get good hands, though. The rest of this pitch is an awesome stembox with bomber hands in the corner.
P4: This is where Cornachionne's guide is seriously wrong, in my humble opinion. The book mentions something about sustained tight hands. Yes, there are some overhanging slightly sandy tight hands (#2 Friends), but they don't last long. After pulling the small bulge of tight hands, it quickly gets into cups, fists, and an occasional offwidth move. Pumpy pitch, but not sustained on the tight hands.
P5: A short jaunt up the last fifty feet or so of choss to the the top.
Rappel down to the notch on King of Pain, and then the same rappel.
A standard desert rack, meaning doubles up to a #3 Camalot, and one #4 Camalot. Seasoned hard desert climbers might not need the #4 Cam.
Looking up at the 3rd pitch stembox and 4th pitch ...
B-Fo sinking tight hands on the first pitch.
The top section of the 4th pitch. The varied size...
Dan Wright set to cruise mode.
Ah...Finally the hand jam I was looking for. 3rd ...
Making the move into the OW section. It's a long ...
Tom on the cool "box" pitch
|By Joseffa Meir|
Oct 7, 2004
Make sure to continue P1 out of the pod and to a small ledge with a pin. Otherwise it is quite difficult for your partner to pass by.If you are "short" or not good at offwidth climbing (like me), the crux of pitch 3 is getting into the crack after chimneying behind the flake. A #4 camalot or wide cam is great for this. The rest of the pitch is quite casual and very cool!P5 is VERY loose to say the least. Overall Rim Shot is an enjoyable climb and in the shade most of the day which is nice if it's hot.
|By Laurent Meillon|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 29, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
P1: definately don't stop at the stupid pod, contrary to IC guidebook suggestion.
We used a # 4.5, which corresponds to the new BD #5. It's not compulsory, but usefull twice:P3: when you exit the tunneling bit with a couple of unsecure wide moves. If you fell there, it's a 25-ft down and right pendulum into a narrowing chimney. You'd most definately regret it! P4: If you have the 4.5, you can always say you placed it to get the weight off your belt.
P5 is loose, but you're standing on a ledge, placing pro if you like, making a move etc. And your partner is not standing straight under. So, loose, yes, but not scary.
P3&4 form an awesome, unmistakable line which you can admire from the cliff base. Once at the belay between those two pitches, the panorama is stunning.
|By Dana Prosser|
Apr 26, 2006
some small to med. nuts will come in handy on the 2nd pitch. You can rap this route with one 70m rope (careful on 2nd rap- just reaches anchors)
|By Scotty Nelson|
May 1, 2006
-- We linked Pitch 1 & 2 together with a 60m rope.
-- Look for a single belay bolt on the ledge at the end of pitch 4
-- We didn't quite understand where P5 goes, you can easily traverse off and scramble to the summit.
-- We rapped off the West side with 2 60m ropes, the last pull was difficult and we had to do ~20 feet of downclimbing.
|By Ben Kiessel|
Oct 23, 2006
Amanda and I climbed this on July 4th 2005. We were in the shade and were still really warm.
We tried to do this a few months before after a few of the other Bridger Jacks, but we did not have a guide book and I climbed up the offwidth/chimney below pitch 2. I scored a #3 camalot on the bottom of the chimney that someone must have dropped while climbing the stembox. The straight up variation was not that bad, there was ok gear and it was a fun chimney.
|By Josh Gross|
Apr 7, 2008
Rapping "Aging Salesmen" 5.11+ is the best way down from the top of the Bridger Jack.
From: Durango, CO
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Just got back from Rim Shot. What a great route. The 4th pitch felt harder than 5.11-. Something about the off size got us. Totally loved the route and the 3rd stem box pitch is absolutely incredible. The most fun I've had off the deck.
|By Lou M.|
Oct 24, 2011
Pitch two (.10+) was a little confusing. Past the pod I went straight into the chimney and followed the splitter crack that pinched down to tips. From there stuffed a #4 on the left side of roof. If that was'nt right let me know because it was a super fun pitch. The stembox was out of this world sick. The crux was a mega pumper. I give it an .11b. So call me a pussy. Thnks Dave for being game. Four stars all the way.
|By Michael Ybarra|
From: on the road
Apr 5, 2012
Partner and I both gave this one out of three stars. We did it in three pitches, linking 1&2 and 4&5. Some good climbing but a lot of sub par rock. The crux was definitely the overhanging 11 tight (super sandy) hands. Kind of a miserable pitch, I thought, leading to the choss exit pitch.
We rapped into the notch with a single 70. Rapped the first east face station there, although the rope didn't quite reach the next one. Close enough though to clip the anchor. The third rap easily reached the ground.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 11, 2013
What an excellent route! That said, it's still a desert tower and there is some choss and dangerous sections. If you only brought a 70m rope, you CANNOT do the Aging Salesman Raps. Read the rap beta for the formation or just take 2 ropes.
rack: single green/yellow alien and small to medium nuts. doubles to #3 (triples of #.75 - #2 camalot), single #4 and #5 camalot (c4). 70m rope or double 50s/60s.
On P1, you could easily use 4 or 5 #1 camalots so take care to place the other sizes wherever you can. Being out of #1s I used the #5 at one point. It would be a little heady to link 1 & 2 since your belayer can't see you and you will land on the ledge long before they take in rope.
P2. The boulder problem is a little sandy, soft and balancy. The anchor isn't bomber but it has one good drilled angle. You can back it up with the yellow alien in soft rock. The green alien fits in the finger slot. It's run out after the boulder problem on bad rock for a ways. Once you get back to good rock, start the traverse towards the end of the .5 camalot section. I went to the end of the crack, only to downclimb a long ways again before traversing. The traverse is heady for the second.
P3 was the best of the route. Used the #5 and #4 to start the crack after the chimney to get to the splitter crack.
P4 is sandy and pod-y to start. Look for the magic hueco holds to reach for the #1s. Belay from a single bolt on a flat ledge and back it up with a shallow green alien. You can run the rope 30 feet down the ledge to a .4 camalot placement too as an additional backup.
P5. Not really sure where it's supposed to go. Just make your way through the shitty band somewhere.