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Rim Job 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Anderson, Hanson, 1993
Page Views: 2,391
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 12, 2001

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Taking a whipper.
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Description 

Rim Job must stand in the top five routes at CWC, and it would be a worthy addition to any climbing area. At CWC it is brilliant. Behind the Boux Block is a very (indeed, very) steep line that takes the commanding prow at the right end of the wall. Begin climbing on the left face and angle over to the arete for the first clip. This is followed by a series of slaps on the inverted arete. Chase up to a horizontal seam on the right before swinging back left to grab a huge hueco. Pull out of the hueco onto the face to start a series of pocket moves that culminate back on the arete above. Jog back left at the top to clip the anchor. If this route has any draw-back, it is that the stone is quite sharp and hard on the hands. FFA may have gone I.S. Greene. Great stone, great problem, and exciting climbing with a complex sequence in the start all add up to a CWC classic.


Protection 

Seven draws and a rope.



Photos of Rim Job Slideshow Add Photo
Cabber crankin'.
Cabber crankin'.
Steep and sweet.
Steep and sweet.
Chris again.
Chris again.
Strange brew here in The Wood.
Strange brew here in The Wood.
Comments on Rim Job Add Comment
Show which comments
By ScoRo
From: Portland, OR
Jun 10, 2003

Just wondering, in Hanson's guide it says "the righ hand variation with three Metolius hangers is still a project", is it still a project? Just wondering.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 18, 2004

In my opinion, much harder than other lower 12s in the canyon (Pay Homage, Project X, Bolted By Committe/Karbonite Manuever) that I have sent.... So 12c seems unlikely.... [Definitely] tricky and an amazing blend of power/endurance and technique to get you through.... Unfortunately thought I broke a hold today working on the route.... It was a good left hand gaston just low of the horizontal seem and for shorter guys who use it as a bump it could make the move signifcantly harder since the hold is now cut to 1/2 the size it used to be....

By Tod Anderson
Jul 22, 2004
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

FA - Anderson - so far back I can't remember when now. The variation around the right side is an open project for whomever to do.

By ErinC
Jan 28, 2008

Does anyone have any short person beta (5'2") for the last move? Getting the last crimp on the face seems remarkably insecure and desperate.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 31, 2008

FA - TA - Nov. 93.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 7, 2009

Fun route, good movement up the arete.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Sep 18, 2009

Why is Chris Drysdale listed on the FA list? He was totally out of the picture by then and had zero to do with this route.
Also regarding the mention of the project to the right, it is called Bones and listed here.