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 ADVANCED
Coffin Buttress
Routes Sorted
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C.P.O.D. T 
Closed Casket Variation S 
Coffin Roof T 
Coffin, The T 
Exsqueeze Me S 
No Star Tuesday T 
Rightside Variation T 
Strewn Masters of Hore S 
Viewing, The S 

Rightside Variation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,456
Submitted By: Dave Budge on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Description 

Fantastic, can be done in one pitch from ground with 60m rope by linking up with the Coffin and continuing right at roof. Brilliant dihedral climbing, great exposure, often pretty thin. As a single pitch it is one of the best in Utah.

Descent: Rap down other (viewer's left from bottom) side of the Coffin to chain anchors for The Coffin route. One more single-rope rap to ground.

Protection 

Standard rack with extra small stuff: wires, offsets, TCUs.


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By tenesmus
Sep 30, 2005

Agreed. Run it together - its so much fun! How many people just do the coffin without this pitch. It really adds a lot to the climb. (Especially if you've just gotten off Crescent/Final Link)
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 4, 2005

Great in one pitch if you have PLENTY of gear and like thin awkward cracks!
By Nathan Fisher
Mar 1, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A nice finish to the Coffin. Not as good as I thought it would be, but better than the 2nd pitch of the Coffin. Awkward does not begin to describe it.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I love the rightside variation! I usually do it in 2 pitches, but next time I'll try it in a single pitch!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 4, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hadn't done this for a long time and had forgotten what a great pitch it is! With a 70m rope you can just get down with one rope off the left side.
By Wolfski
From: slc, ut
Aug 11, 2008

finally got around to doing this. great climb. gotta go back and do it the coffin and right side in one pitch though
By Alec
Nov 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not quite sure what the hype is about this route...or the three stars in the guidebook. Really? If done as the 2nd pitch of the Coffin, It's not really sustained or aesthetic. Some interesting and fun climbing, but no more so (or harder) than the direct variation to Crescent Crack.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I thought it added nicely to the reg. coffin. This variation adds on 2 more crux 5.9 sections.
By Mark Kadlec
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 13, 2012

Definitely worth doing! We did it as a second pitch belaying from the chains, found it at least as hard as The Coffin's crack, with some pretty funky climbing, especially getting into the second dihedral near the top.