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Short Wall - Left Side
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Belay Girl 
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Left V Crack 
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Right V Crack 
Step 'n Out 

Right V Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 2,734
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 28, 2002
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Lisa Pritchett on Right V Crack 5.10b

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Description 

Easily the best line on the wall and one of the better cracks in the immediate area, the striking line of the Right V Crack is a must for crack climbing aficionados.

The climbing is fairly continuous and starts off with good finger locks and slippery feet down low, past an easier middle section to finish up an interesting lieback around a bulge higher. Originally rated 5.10a it appears that years of traffic have polished the start so much that it's gotten a bit harder. Two or even three stars out of five.


Location 

Located in the center of the crag at the right margin of the taller portion of the crag.


Protection 

Gear to 2.5" with an emphasis on thinner stuff for the crux. Slings are handy if you wish to extend the anchor.



Photos of Right V Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Right V Crack is still a good place to practice clean aid. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Right V Crack is still a good place to practice cl...
Geoff about to be sandbagged
Geoff about to be sandbagged
Right V Crack <br />Photo by Brian Cooper
Right V Crack
Photo by Brian Cooper
Bill Price, running it out on "Right V Crack" <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Bill Price, running it out on "Right V Crack"
Phot...
V Cracks. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: V Cracks.
Photo by Blitzo.
"Right V Crack". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Right V Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.
"Right V Crack". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Right V Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.
Agina Sedler cranking and having some fun.
Agina Sedler cranking and having some fun.
Comments on Right V Crack Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 28, 2002

A good lead as well, but as mentioned, the heavily-chalked finger crack tends to get damn greasy. If you want to practice your "greasy finger crack" technique, try this one mid-afternoon on a nice summer's day. ;)

By Josh Beck
Dec 5, 2002
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Stellar... but definitely harder than Vogel gives it.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 5, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

When Dave Bengston and Mark Bowling soloed over 200 routes in a day at Josh they both soloed this climb by headlamp...just some useless local trivia.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 10, 2004

it was a 10c toprope 20 yrs ago b4 it got greasy...

and bengston and bowling solo it via headlamps?

By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

5.10a? Has gotten slippery over the past couple decades! Best route on "Short Wall"!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Easily the best route at the crag. Do it in cold weather and it's not so bad/slick, which is nicer, but there are a few hard moves; maybe middle 5.10.

By Jasmine Kall
Feb 26, 2010

Maybe I should wait to try it again later... Got pumped out on this climb and took a nice lead fall. My first... Try it again in 6 months.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 27, 2010

yo jasmine! Are we gonna get any of those photos? I think we got one mid flight.

By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

My favorite route in Indian Cove. Nice continuous climbing at the grade with a few easier moves along the way. Very enjoyable and an excellent intro to JTree crack climbing. Anne did well, and Gary made it look about 5.2.

By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Dec 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I didn't know about the slick feet starting this, doesn't look too slick, but feet greased a couple times. Due to this, the resulting body tension to stay on and place pro from dubious feet made it feel solid at 5.10b. Great line! Three stars for quality, but taken in context of the Indian cove area. Really pretty short