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A slightly harder version of Left Up. Can be a quick fun route if things are busy at the South Face area.
Located just to the right of Left Up and just left of Stage Ledge, etc.
Standard NC rack, runners, 1 rope. Slings on tree for rappel.
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 14, 2008
This climb features a crux right off the deck for the first 20 ft. The landing is bad. At this point it takes a bomber stopper (about a 10-12 BD) and is pretty casual to the ledge. It's worth doing but must have your lead head on.
|By Bryan Hall|
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 23, 2008
There is also a 00 C3 placement that will hold a fall if you place it well. Beware that if it walks at all as you move up through the crux it can lose it's purchase.
|By Joseph Brown|
From: Greenville, SC
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Left Up".
The tree mentioned in the beta is adequate for rappelling, but why stress the tree when bolts are in easy reach?
To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.
I'll usually lower after the first 30 feet until I'm ready to clean up and move on - anything above that is just a monkey walk up the wall.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I thought this was similar difficulty to "Left Up", but it's better protected. I was able to climb easily up to a stance where I could reach up and get a bomber green BD C3, then downclimb, move to the right and climb the starting sequence with a TR. The next placement is also a bit sketchy, as you are placing somewhat blind while liebacking off the lip of the crack. I put a #3 camalot in here that seemed alright...a smaller cam might also work. After, that, the route is pretty forgettable like most of the routes on this wall.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011
Good Climb All around. Once you pull the first couple moves of the climb you enter the danger zone, keep calm, cool and collected and set some gear as soon as possible. Once you set some pro it becomes much less terrifying for the rest of the climb.
THis is another line where a crash pad would help ease the ankles and the mind.