Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South Peak - West Face
Select Route:
The Balle ss Boltchoppers 
Agony 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' 
Back to the Front 
Banana 
Black Mamba 
Blackbird 
Breakneck 
Bring on the Nubiles 
Broken Neck 
Burn, The 
Burning Tendons 
Cast of Thousands 
Casual In The Mind's Eye 
Clarke's Climb 
Cockfight 
Conn's West 
Cottonmouth - Venom 
Crispy Critter 
Critter Crack 
Crusher Critter 
Debbie 
Easy Over 
Ecstasy Junior 
Front C 
Green Wall 
Gunsight to South Peak 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct 
Humphrey's Head 
Jankowitz-Kamm 
Le Gourmet 
Le Gourmet Direct 
Lox 
Manual Dexterity 
Marshall's Madness 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 
Monkey See Monkey Do 
Neck Press 
Old Ladies Route 
Old Man's Route 
Pedro's Problem 
Pleasant Overhangs 
Prune 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) 
Sidewinder 
So What 
Sunshine 
Thais 
Thais Direct 
Tomato 
Traffic Jam 
Triple S 
West Pole 
West Pole Direct Finish 

Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jesse and Kristin Morehouse
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Oct 26, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Climb up the left trending ramp start for Back to the Front. From the stance where BTTF traverses right, go straight up over the roof to a slab. There is gear at the lip. Go pretty much straight up to the steep rock above aiming for a bolt which is at the crux. Above that, a small horizontal or two leads to a vertical crack finishing just left of BTTF. Build a gear anchor and descend as per BTTF.

A little history on the multiple names. We climbed it ground up after rapping it to see if it was worth doing. I was too much of a chicken to commit to the crux on lead since there was no gear to prevent smacking the slab if you blew it so I made a runout traverse right, up 6 feet then back left to the horizontals above the crux. My wife followed, climbing the crux. That winter we went back to put in a bolt at the crux on lead but, I bit off more than I reckoned by trying a direct start up the face below the ramp start to BTTF. 15 or so feet up with no pro (after finding the first horizontal to be a shallow flare), I was just about to pull up to the second horizontal when a hold blew and I pitched, bouncing off of Old Man's traverse ledge, falling 30+ feet total and breaking my foot. With no pro in the fall smashed my wife into her anchor, the tree at the top of P2 of Prune, with a side collision that drove the side of her helmet into her head splitting it open, filling her helmet with blood and dazing her. She still held the fall super solid and is my hero. After extracting ourselves from that mess which happened on a Monday in late winter with no one around, we drove to the Petersburg hospital where a foreign exchange doc/intern/whatever tried telling my wife she was suffering from an STD and not a mild concussion. I got a pink cast.

Needless to say, the bolt never got put in. Some time in the next year a guy who was guiding there bolted the crux on lead after cleaning off so much lichen you could see a streak down the wall from the parking lot and not knowing it had been climbed already gave it the name in parenthesis. So...Im not sure who really got the FA and dont really care that much but (and Im obviously biased here) I totally like our name the best since the route is Right to the Left of Back to the Front.


Location 

Start is the same as for Back to the Front off of Old Man's traverse pitch.


Protection 

Standard Seneca rack will do but I enjoyed having an extra green alien/blue TCU.



Comments on Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Cecil
Oct 28, 2012

the route is actually called "A Thought Forgotten' but like you said --whatever...

By Seth Murphy
Oct 31, 2012

Actually the bolt was placed ON LEAD via a hook, by me. The route, as you said, was rapped and cleaned beforehand as to prevent a situation similar to yours. Great route nonetheless.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Nov 2, 2012

Seth, looks like I got the wrong story. Tom, thanks for the correct other name. Note edits above and thanks for the clarification guys!