Right to Life  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Alan Nelson, Spring 2001 Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Aug 8, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

From the right side of the block at the AKT belay, traverse right passing the belay for Nelsonator-I (dihedral) and continue right passing two more double bolt belay stations. The furthest right stance is for Right to Life which can be combined with Nelsonator-III (the arete) for a nice two pitch climb. Right to Life (aka P1) chases half a dozen bolts to a stance on the ramp above. This is a fun pitch combining big reaches in a tight corner system. Way too short for such good movement.

The approach traverse pitch from the ledge below Adventure Kayak Trundle passes four two-bolt anchor stations and one protection bolt and includes some 5.8/5.9 moves and some interesting route-finding around some large garden patches pasted to the wall. The route is only 30' long, but overhangs all the way. The route was bolted and led in Summer 2000.

Protection 

QD and a rope. Bring a 60m or doubles if you intend to rap from above Nelsonator-III or just left of the block. Anyway you decide to approach these distant routes, it will be necessary to get back to the AKT belay, and the descent entails traversing back behind the block to one of the double bolt rap stations off the ledge. Two bolt anchor at the base, four protection bolts, and a two bolt anchor with rings at the top.