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Trashcan Rock - East Face
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butterfly Crack 
Filch 
Filth 
Gripper Traverse 
Hermanutic 
Left Sawdust Crack 
Right Sawdust Crack 
Ripper 
Wallaby Crack 

Right Sawdust Crack 

5.8

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Jan 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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A tad short, but a fun route!

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Description 

Starts at the right end of the East Face of Trashcan Rock, facing the road and at the back of a small cove of rock. The very rightmost crack, just a few feet left of Left Sawdust Crack. A short, clean hand crack on good rock but a little meat-tenderizer inside. Not too bad though. Leans a little left and is a touch awkward for the grade but nothing to worry about. Not terribly memorable but a good warmup if you're in the area.


Protection 

Hand sized, same for anchor.



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Right Sawdust Crack

Right Sawdust Crack


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By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Not that great.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008

Nice crack, good rock, but only about a bodylength of climbing in the handcrack. Even by Josh standards it's way, way too short. Secure locker jams for the solo. Kind of like a miniature version of Gem, complete with extra coarse rock.

By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.9

Perhaps this just emphasizes the fact that I'm not 100% on my crack footwork, but I found this very hard for the grade, especially the first few feet of slight overhang. If you're absolutely secure on crack, though, it's one of the purest hand/fist cracks I've seen the the park, albeit short. Heard others say they had had a lot of trouble with it, also.

By KraigP
Nov 19, 2008

I liked it! Very easy with solid footwork and hand placement. I give a solid 2 stars as its too short for anymore stars. But it's a good warm up lead and a good lead for someone trying to learn how to place gear on a little bit harder crack. I suggest this route.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.8+

The crack itself is very solid with straightforward jams, though I found it pretty pumpy to place pro, partly due to the steepness & the slanting orientation of the crack. It makes for a great downclimb as well - especially after TR'ing Left Sawdust Crack.

By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 5, 2012

not a bad short route, but it is a brutal little affair!