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Trashcan Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butterfly Crack T 
Filch T 
Filth T 
Gripper Traverse 
Hermanutic T 
Left Sawdust Crack T 
Mr. Freeze 
Right Sawdust Crack T 
Wallaby Crack T 

Right Sawdust Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,295
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Jan 25, 2003

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A tad short, but a fun route!


Starts at the right end of the East Face of Trashcan Rock, facing the road and at the back of a small cove of rock. The very rightmost crack, just a few feet left of Left Sawdust Crack. A short, clean hand crack on good rock but a little meat-tenderizer inside. Not too bad though. Leans a little left and is a touch awkward for the grade but nothing to worry about. Not terribly memorable but a good warmup if you're in the area.


Hand sized, same for anchor.

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Right Sawdust Crack

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By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Not that great.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008

Nice crack, good rock, but only about a bodylength of climbing in the handcrack. Even by Josh standards it's way, way too short. Secure locker jams for the solo. Kind of like a miniature version of Gem, complete with extra coarse rock.
By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Perhaps this just emphasizes the fact that I'm not 100% on my crack footwork, but I found this very hard for the grade, especially the first few feet of slight overhang. If you're absolutely secure on crack, though, it's one of the purest hand/fist cracks I've seen the the park, albeit short. Heard others say they had had a lot of trouble with it, also.
By KraigP
Nov 19, 2008

I liked it! Very easy with solid footwork and hand placement. I give a solid 2 stars as its too short for anymore stars. But it's a good warm up lead and a good lead for someone trying to learn how to place gear on a little bit harder crack. I suggest this route.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crack itself is very solid with straightforward jams, though I found it pretty pumpy to place pro, partly due to the steepness & the slanting orientation of the crack. It makes for a great downclimb as well - especially after TR'ing Left Sawdust Crack.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 5, 2012

Not a bad little route, but it is a brutal little affair!
By brian burke
From: la, ca
Mar 11, 2014

i climbed this route. my hands hurt now.
By dnaiscool
Apr 18, 2015

Grit-fest POS...You want a cool 5.8 crack, do Sail Away.

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