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Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Button Soup T 
Face It T 
Left Peyote Crack T 
Middle Peyote Crack T 
Right Peyote Crack T 
Zygote T 

Right Peyote Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 856
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 23, 2003

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Middle Peyote Crack (left), and Right Peyote Crack...

Description 

This crack had no apparent crux, but several moves requiring a little effort. The general protectability of the route and good rests from which to place gear make it a reasonable lead to push your grade on.

There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall. The right-most of these starts with jams and gets a little wider as you go up. There are several moves at the 5.7 or 5.8 grade, but with a good set of cams, these can all be protected before commiting.

The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.

Protection 

Standard J-tree rack- a few stoppers, a few cams to hand/fist sized. THe route is mostly jamming from hands to fists and protects as you would expect as such.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.



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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 24, 2008

The fist sized crack is very low angle and more 4th class. Unless 5.8 is around your limit I wouldn't bother dragging along those pieces. A couple mediums and a finger-sized piece for the top will be fine. Leave the stoppers on the ground.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jun 11, 2009

fun solo