This is a true chimney climbing experience that should not be missed by anyone. It is a bit runout, but reasonably secure, with some face holds to augment the chimney-style climbing. Kneepads can really make this a more enjoyable experience.
Locate the beautiful, deep chimney on the right side of the large buttress at the SE side of the crag. Don't stare too long at the right, overhanging offwidth (Vulture Direct, a classic sandbag). This climb takes the obvious chimney that forks left from the conjoined wide crack start with Vulture.
Left side in or right side in? Remember that it is far less strenuous, and easier to rest, if you can lean back against a lower-angled wall then if you are being forced forward towards one.
Again, the climbing is runout, but be confident, and stay in control. There is an old bolt to clip after a 20 foot runout, then another long runout to the top.
Rap from the obvious anchors.
A #4 Camalot and one QD for a bolt. This is a runout route, but relatively secure- it would be hard (although not that hard) to fall out of this chimney. Single rope rap required.
|By Mike Sofranko|
Oct 9, 2001
You can place a #3 Camalot to sort of protect getting into the first squeeze, then a #4 Camalot (2 foot runner helpful) before heading up left into the main part of the chimney. It gets wider the higher you go, and it is possible to place a #4 BigBro down low before it gets too wide. But, it is essentially unprotected. Quite a neat fissure, though.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 2, 2002
How big is the crack higher up? I have an old (like first edition) copy of crack country and I saw and awful lot of recommendations for "large pipes." Given some time, some 4" tube steel and a metal saw, I'm sure it can be protected, clean no less.
|By Skip Harper|
Jun 1, 2003
Number 1 on the above Beta Photo is the start for both Right Parallel Space and Vulture. Don't fall into RPS, there's teeth down in there. Vulture is the least climbed of these routes, but offers a devilishly testy route for 5.10 leaders if started directly off the ground (take extra medium cams). See www.vedauwoo.org for more details.
|By Paul Sampson|
Jul 21, 2004
A great climb. However, the runout from the bolt (which is really an old pin) to the anchors was about 30 feet from what I could tell. That section also traversed enough that my second got pretty wigged out. Not a good first chimney for anyone to climb, but if you've been in a few, this one is super! The moves are fun and not very hard.
Aug 25, 2008
I'm sure this is a great route, but not for a warm up and a first time lead in the Voo. This was my 3rd trad lead ever and it was a big wake up call. The run outs between my last piece and the bolt tested me a bit but the 30 feet above the bolt to the anchors was wiggie. I wasn't crying like a baby but I do remember kissing the ground when I got down. :)
From: Loveland, Colorado
Aug 24, 2012
The two old bolts have been replaced. Thanks to Matt Clark and the American Safe Climbers Association.