Right Long's Crack 5.11
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| Type: | TR, 18 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | John Long, 1974 sans rope |
| Submitted By: | Adam Stackhouse on Feb 12, 2006 |
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The Long's Cracks
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This crack is more like a chimney after a bit of offwidth problem solving. Not often done, although clean.
Protection TR bolts
Sequence of Luke sending Right Long's crack.
Phot...
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| Comments on Right Long's Crack |
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By rocky233
Jun 21, 2006
rating: 5.11d
| Anybody who rates Right Longs 5.11b definitely has not done it. This is harder than Mother Superior. |
By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 5, 2007
| Rumors suggest 5.11d. Before the chockstone was carjacked away (yes, a floor jack) from the base of the crack this was a great 5.10c fist crack. |
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 22, 2009
| Once you figure out the beta this doable at 5.11/11+
If you are comfortable inverting I think may be easier that Mother Superior... |
By Brandon R.
From: San Mateo, CA
Nov 17, 2009
| I'd have to agree with Luke about this being easier than Mother Superior. My knees seem to have a serious disagreement with MS though, so YMMV. |
By John Long
Jun 26, 2010
| I don't ever remember this being 5.10c. We always thought it was 5.11, especially on the first ascent, circa 1975, on-sight with no pads and no rope. Don't pitch.
JL |
By Justin Edl
Jun 28, 2010
| Super stylie FA, John! I thought about soloing, but thought better of it. If you see this comment, just out of curiosity, how high did the rock that used to be at the base get you? Would love to know how the FA was done as I get a kick out of learning about how the "dark arts" were developed over the years, especially from good storytellers.
Also, if these were my digs, I would have to start it back in the cave, just for dumb fun. Anyone done that before? |
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