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Right Long's Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: TR, 18'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Long, 1974 sans rope
Page Views: 1,895
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 12, 2006
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Sequence of Luke sending Right Long's crack.

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Description 

This crack is more like a chimney after a bit of offwidth problem solving. Not often done, although clean.


Protection 

TR bolts



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By rocky233
Jun 21, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Anybody who rates Right Longs 5.11b definitely has not done it. This is harder than Mother Superior.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Sep 28, 2006

Impossible.

By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 5, 2007

Rumors suggest 5.11d. Before the chockstone was carjacked away (yes, a floor jack) from the base of the crack this was a great 5.10c fist crack.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 22, 2009

Once you figure out the beta this doable at 5.11/11+

If you are comfortable inverting I think may be easier that Mother Superior...

By Brandon R.
From: San Mateo, CA
Nov 17, 2009

I'd have to agree with Luke about this being easier than Mother Superior. My knees seem to have a serious disagreement with MS though, so YMMV.

By John Long
Jun 26, 2010

I don't ever remember this being 5.10c. We always thought it was 5.11, especially on the first ascent, circa 1975, on-sight with no pads and no rope. Don't pitch.

JL

By Justin Edl
Jun 28, 2010

Super stylie FA, John! I thought about soloing, but thought better of it. If you see this comment, just out of curiosity, how high did the rock that used to be at the base get you? Would love to know how the FA was done as I get a kick out of learning about how the "dark arts" were developed over the years, especially from good storytellers.

Also, if these were my digs, I would have to start it back in the cave, just for dumb fun. Anyone done that before?