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THis route is very good for it's venue, but like most of the routes at the Lizards hangout, it's short length and unintersting position merit only one star. Still, if you are at this crag, it's worth a go. On the SW face, find two cracks that start within a meter of eachother at the ground, but diverge right and left to finish perhaps 4M apart. The right most of these, which passes a bulge at each right-hand-jog in the crack, is the Right Lizard Crack.This route ascends on good locks and jams with a few face holds and is a good route to dial in moderate crack skills on. There did not seem to be a particular crux and the climb was generally well protected.
This route sews up with a standard rack of stoppers and cams to 2.5".A TR can be set from a crack system up top.
BETA PHOTO: "Right Lizard Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Right Lizard Crack
BB on Right Lizard Crack.
Photo by Blitzo.
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 16, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Yes this one is short as are so many out here. Protects well, in the sun afternoons, good jamming, next to a few more fun routes. In my eyes not worth seeking out on it's own, but when in the area (Maybe after or before Just Another Roadside Attraction 5.9 trad)give it a go.
Dec 31, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This is a fun short climb. It has a bouldery start that is fun. It is better to not stop and place gear at the start, or you might get a little pumped. Do the bouldery moves then stand up and set your gear in the crack at you face level. Then lean right and start finger locking and smearing through the crux.
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Guess I'm a whimp or I missed something. I thought this route was easily 5.9+/.10a. Fun route... a bit short, but cool moves, good protection, easy downclimb and easy approach. I'd suggest on the way out of the park.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Jan 15, 2011
I enjoyed this route even though it's short. It has stout moves down low with fun jug hauling above. Worth your time especially when the rest of the park is cold or windy.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 18, 2011
Soloed onsight on a very hot summer morning. Seemed like a pretty definitive one-move crux to me, reaching off a funky lock in the middle of the slanting section about 15' up.