WI4 M4 A1 Mod. Snow
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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||WI4 M4 A1 [details]|
|FA: ||Joe Kaelin & party|
|Submitted By: ||Caelan on Nov 11, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: McHenry's Peak - East Face: 9 Nov 07
This has ~3 pitches of rock/mixed, 1 or 2 pitches of ice. Zig-zag up some mixed/snow ramps, bust left to meet up with the Big Mac Couloir at the top of the buttress, and then aid up the Headwall (A1) or escape to the right (4th class).
This route goes up the right side of the prominent buttress on the east face of McHenry's Peak.
Mixed alpine rack: (Single set of cams +/-, full set of passive gear, pitons, and ~7 ice screws and lots of long slings maybe?).
BETA PHOTO: This is the line my partner and I took. The belays...
First pitch of Right Gully.
Gil leading typical mixed snow and rock terrain.
|By eric harvey|
Nov 12, 2007
The guidebook says to climb up snow bench for a while and traverse right. TOTAL CRAP. Maybe that traverse has been done with no snow, but it looks spicy with much snow cover. Instead climb two enjoyable pitches of 5.8ish rock (hard to judge in boots) through the cliffs at the base of Right Gully. From there one can cruise.
2 pitches of rock to ice (5.8)
1 pitch of ice (200 feet)
Mellow solo for the rest (M1?)
Time for spray: Lollygagging, it took 15 hours car to car.