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Right Flake 
Roof, The 
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Upper Crack 
Variation to Boogaloo 
Virgin, The 

Right Flake 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: all year
Page Views: 1,699
Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Nathan Fitzhugh leading Right Flake.


This fun crack climb is one of the few trad routes at Big Rock and a great climb for a beginner trad leader. Easy to protect with fun moves.


Starts on a ledge above Boogaloo. On the right side of the ledge, follow the obvious right-facing crack/corner system.


Standard rack

Photos of Right Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan Fitzhugh leading Right Flake.
Nathan Fitzhugh leading Right Flake.
The route climbs the right-facing dihedral on the right side of the pic.  Where the crack ends, join up with the Left Flake, then easy friction to the top.  Use the bolted anchors on the left as the other set is for Cheap Thrills/Africa Flake.
BETA PHOTO: The route climbs the right-facing dihedral on the ...
Nathan Fitzhugh leading Right Flake.
Nathan Fitzhugh leading Right Flake.
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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 2, 2008

Left Flake has a bolt anchor. It's better to build your own for the Right Flake.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 1, 2009

Great for early trad leaders. The quick traverse right at the "roof" may intimidate a first leader but the hidden jug at the end is very welcome.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 21, 2010

While the Right Flake offers great moves and excellent rock, the gear placements can be tricky. The somewhat traversing nature of the route, small, shallow cracks and pods can be problematic to protect. Much of the gear is small nuts and cams, and rope drag can be an issue if slings aren't utilized, where necessary. Not really the best choice for beginning trad. leaders.

By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 16, 2012

really enjoyable! I like this one a bit more than the left flake. And I agree you should build an anchor for this one.

By TacoDelRio
From: The Ditch and the hood
Nov 2, 2013

FWIW there is a solid bolted anchor above this flake, which I use for both flakes as well as that 5.4 crack without problem.

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Great crack with fingers and lieback slab climbing. Seems about same difficulty as left flake but slightly harder to protect on lead than left flake.