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 ADVANCED
The Pear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil's Lake Revisited T 
Dextrous Digits T,TR 
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 
Finger Tripping T 
Gina's Surprise T 
Good Timing T,S 
Heavenly Journey T 
Jam on It T,TR 
La Chaim T 
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 
Neko's Route T,S 
Northern Lights T 
Pit of the Pear, The T 
Platinum Stethoscope T 
Right Dihedral T 
Root of All Evil T 
Salud T 
Sibling Rivalry T,S 
Slippage T 
Sloper Ramp 
Sweet Sabrina T 
Thorazine T 
Whole Thing T 
Unsorted Routes:

Right Dihedral 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: [FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook)]
Page Views: 1,012
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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First belay on the Right Dihedral. Fun climb, a b...

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Description 

Very obvious, large, left-facing dihedral that runs straight up the right side of the Pear formation.

P1. The start is either face moves to the left of the dirty corner (guidebook says this) and traverse right about 15 feet up (lots of lichen) or do some weird stemming and chimney moves (I did this) and get up to where the dihedral is a clean corner with a varying crack. Either way, routefinding is a breeze as you just take the dihedral and jam and stem your way 150 feet to a fixed anchor (stiff 5.9, sustained with few rests).

Pitch 2 looks harder as it leans farther left but the face angle eases and it is much easier but VERY fun and exciting (5.7).

Scramble off right or climb one more easy pitch to summit ridge and rap from trees.

Protection 

Full set of cams from Aliens to #5 Camalot.


Photos of Right Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Mike leading up the first pitch.
Mike leading up the first pitch.
Janet at the first belay of Right Dihedral
Janet at the first belay of Right Dihedral
The arete provides a rest but the climbing is in t...
The arete provides a rest but the climbing is in t...

Comments on Right Dihedral Add Comment
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By Errett Allen
Aug 5, 2002

With the exception of one black, oily-looking guano perch, the "dirty corner" at the bottom is actually quite clean and contains enjoyable climbing that is well protected and easy with one commiting (but moderate) move exiting the chimney to get established in the dihedral. Good route.
By Jim McGuire
Oct 29, 2003

The start in the corner is a bit dirty and licheny. One should not be discouraged by this as things clean up nicely above.
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 25, 2006

FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook)
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Meaty! Considering that the angle of the cliff lies back why is this one so awkward, sustained and strenuous? In UK terms, traditional gritstone HVS 5b.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Old school 5.9. Protect the low crux out of the chimney by placing a hand-sized cam out to the right side in a crack 2 feet away from the corner. Route can be done with a single 60m rope to just arrive on the ledge, but a 70m is better to give you room to go set the belay more comfortably.
3" gear for the belay anchor up top.