Right Dihedral 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | [FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook)] |
| Submitted By: | Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Mike leading up the first pitch.
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The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Very obvious, large, left-facing dihedral that runs straight up the right side of the Pear formation.
P1. The start is either face moves to the left of the dirty corner (guidebook says this) and traverse right about 15 feet up (lots of lichen) or do some weird stemming and chimney moves (I did this) and get up to where the dihedral is a clean corner with a varying crack. Either way, routefinding is a breeze as you just take the dihedral and jam and stem your way 150 feet to a fixed anchor (stiff 5.9, sustained with few rests).
Pitch 2 looks harder as it leans farther left but the face angle eases and it is much easier but VERY fun and exciting (5.7).
Scramble off right or climb one more easy pitch to summit ridge and rap from trees.
Protection Full set of cams from Aliens to #5 Camalot.
Janet at the first belay of Right Dihedral
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First belay on the Right Dihedral. Fun climb, a b...
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The arete provides a rest but the climbing is in t...
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| Comments on Right Dihedral |
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By Errett Allen
Aug 5, 2002
| With the exception of one black, oily-looking guano perch, the "dirty corner" at the bottom is actually quite clean and contains enjoyable climbing that is well protected and easy with one commiting (but moderate) move exiting the chimney to get established in the dihedral. Good route. |
By Jim McGuire
Oct 29, 2003
| The start in the corner is a bit dirty and licheny. One should not be discouraged by this as things clean up nicely above. |
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 25, 2006
| FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook) |
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| Meaty! Considering that the angle of the cliff lies back why is this one so awkward, sustained and strenuous? In UK terms, traditional gritstone HVS 5b. |
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