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 ADVANCED
Babcock Peak
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Babcock Peak 4 Summit Traverse 
Knife, The 
Right Couloir from Boren Creek  
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Right Couloir from Boren Creek  

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Probably by some miners around 1900
Season: June - November
Page Views: 1,225
Submitted By: Kevin Sainio on May 20, 2009
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Climbing up into farthest left couloir. 5/2/2009.

Description 

You will want to find a good way up the wall to your left. Once you reach the notch, we found it easiest to go up to the left of the prominent chimney. The chimney might be a good alternative, but it was iced up when we climbed it in late May. We free-soloed the way up but down climbed while being roped in for the descent do to loose rock. With good route finding, you should be able to find a way up without exceeding 5.3 or so. Again, watch for loose rock. Glissade back to the road.


Location 

From the top of Boren Creek basin, head right up the scree field, aiming for the right most couloir. In early season (earlier than July), most of the couloir could be covered in snow so an ice axe and crampons are recommended. Once you reach the notch, Babcock Peak will be on your left and Middle Babcock will be on you right with a cool looking pinnacle directly in front of you.


Protection 

Helmet, rack of stoppers, and a 30 meter rope. There is a sling at the top to assist in the descent.



Photos of Right Couloir from Boren Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Thad approaching Babcock Peak. The technical climbing begins at the notch on the left side of the picture.
Thad approaching Babcock Peak. The technical climb...
The pinnacle just north of Middle Babcock.
The pinnacle just north of Middle Babcock.
Conditions on May 2, 2009 during a snow storm.
Conditions on May 2, 2009 during a snow storm.
View from the top.
View from the top.
Tom Willis crossing avalanche field.
Tom Willis crossing avalanche field.
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