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The Three Penguins
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Anorexia T 
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Right Chimney T 

Right Chimney 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Michael Kennedy & Molly Higgins - 1976
Page Views: 7,159
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Hallie doing some mad arm-barring up Right Chimney...

  • Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.

    Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - the definite crux of the route. "Chimney" is a misnomer for this thing, the only thing I could squeeze in there were chicken wings and knees.

    Two ropes gets you completely off the route, but it looked feasible to do it in two, single rope rappels.


    One each 0.5 to #4 Camalots. Maybe a few extra hand-size pieces. No stoppers.

    Photos of Right Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Holliday pounding out the final moves to the ...
    Dave Holliday pounding out the final moves to the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay Right Chimney Three Penguins
    BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay Right Chimney Three Penguins
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Tashkin following the first pitch.  He's just ...
    Jon Tashkin following the first pitch. He's just ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Allen Ottman's opinion of the 2nd pitch with 1 #4 ...
    Allen Ottman's opinion of the 2nd pitch with 1 #4 ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Right Chimney
    Right Chimney
    Rock Climbing Photo: the approach
    BETA PHOTO: the approach
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Tashkin's butt squirming into the offwidth.  M...
    Jon Tashkin's butt squirming into the offwidth. M...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fredrich (?), completing the final moves.
    Fredrich (?), completing the final moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The three birds;  kind of hard to tell from this a...
    The three birds; kind of hard to tell from this a...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Summit - on a cold day in November. I'm wearing tw...
    Summit - on a cold day in November. I'm wearing tw...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fredrich (?), a random guy we met from France, thr...
    Fredrich (?), a random guy we met from France, thr...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Right Chimney
    Right Chimney
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fredrich (?), continuing... Come on!
    Fredrich (?), continuing... Come on!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Right Chimney (5.10+)
    Right Chimney (5.10+)

    Comments on Right Chimney Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2015
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 8, 2003

    I agree, Josh, the handcrack bulge low down is hard 5.10, but the OW is definitely the crux, Might it be useful to carry a #5 Camalot for this section? Thankfully, the OW is short, but that is no help when you are at the bottom of it. This is the best route I've done at Arches (out of about 6!).
    By Josh Janes
    May 8, 2003

    On the topo the first pitch was given 10c and the second 10a, seems like they should be reversed...
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 20, 2004

    I dunno, for me a 10a OW is harder than a 10c hand crack!
    By Andy Laakmann
    Site Landlord
    From: Bend, OR
    Feb 1, 2006

    First pitch is awesome. Size goes BD#0.75 Camalots all the way to BD#4 Camalots... with the business being slightly kicked-back hands to wide hands. Felt like 9+/10- compared to Indian Creek grades.

    Second pitch. Ug. I recommend 2x#4.5 Camalots for the aid climbing personally....

    The anchors are on the middle bird... and there is a very spicy move to gain the top... remember, it ain't over until it is over.

    Great weekend climb as it doesn't get much traffic. In the sun until noon. Two single raps work fine.
    By JFA
    Sep 2, 2006

    you can rappel from the summit anchors with one 70m rope. rapping from the summit keeps the rope out of the many deep (and possibly rope jamming) rope grooves near the top.
    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 6, 2006

    No need for #5 Camalot, it is too big. Two 4.5 Camalots (ie purple #5 C4) would be ideal.

    Hand-hand stacks on the second pitch and too narrow to get a knee in - one of the harder offwidth techniques to master.

    The "VERY spicy" move to the top is only moderatly spicey IMHO. Don't let the above comment scare you off. There is a horizontal crack between the chimney and the anchors that you can stuff full of cams. I got in a #3, #3.5, and a #1 camalot and then equalized them. Beyond that it is only a move or two and then you can reach the anchors.

    This is an awesome route - go do it!
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Oct 10, 2007

    The Arches Task Force and the ASCA have now replaced the anchor on top with chain and two half inch bolts. The route can be rapped, I think, with a 70 meter rope... A single sixty puts you about 10 feet off the ledge.
    By M.Morley
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Oct 10, 2007

    Thanks, Sam. The anchor that was up there before was a mess!
    By chrisp
    From: boulder
    Mar 10, 2008

    the top pitch needs a old number 4 cam and a new #5 cam. a hand sized cam or two down low were nice right off the belay. I just bumped the 5 came up a bit to get me through. save a #1 camelot for the top out- that was a wee bit sandy and scary.
    By John Wilder
    From: Las Vegas, NV
    Apr 19, 2008
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    pretty good route, i'd call both pitches 5.10- that offwidth felt pretty tough....props to Michael who sent it with a single #4 C4! yowsers!
    By Michael Ybarra
    From: on the road
    Apr 30, 2008

    Another way to fire the exit moves on P2 is to pinch the rope groves below the chains.
    By UncleBen
    From: The Briar Patch
    Oct 19, 2008
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    From this redneck's perspective, George Bell's comment above is oh so right...

    Regarding the gear....
    Once you are in #5 territory, you can't fall out...or at least me and my 145 lb. arse couldn't...

    Nevertheless, I'd have placed another #4 and two #5s and maybe a #6 and not been at all upset about any of it.
    By tooTALLtim
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 13, 2009

    Maybe an old #5 is too big, but I fit two new #5's in the second pitch.

    Oh, and the powdered rock at the base of the climb feels fantastic on bare feet.
    By J. Thompson
    From: denver, co
    Apr 26, 2009
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I found both pitchs to be 5.10a....and quite good!

    By slim
    Oct 25, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    really fun route with good rock. the comments above are pretty accurate. both pitches seemed pretty comparable in difficulty. first pitch is really fun fingers/thin hands to big hands through a bulge, then low angled fists to the anchor.

    second pitch looks kind of intimidating. it is a bit steep and the feet look sandy, but didn't seem too slippery. the OW section is pretty easy and you can push a pair of 4.5 camalot/5 friend/new #5 camalot sized pieces very easily. most of the time i couldn't get my knee in. at 2 locations i barely could, and got my knee stuck as hell. i mean REALLY stuck. kind of scary stuck. the second time was at the top and my knee was literally bonelocked into place. i was above gear with both arms chickenwinging in front of me, trying to pull my knee out.

    when you get up to the top out section, there is kind of a WTF moment, but luckily there are features in just the right places so that it works out OK.

    2 single rope raps with the 70 got us down. rack was a double set from .5 camalot to old 4.5 camalot, which was more than enough.
    By Zeb Rafaker
    From: Moab
    Apr 27, 2012

    The old #4 and new #5 were the perfect combo to finish the offwidth. Top out wasn't scary at all with a #3.5 and #1. The 70m rope reached with a little to spare.
    By Spencer Weiler
    From: Salt Lake city
    Nov 19, 2012

    Fun route. Enjoyed having 3 #3 camalots on pitch 1, and don't leave the ground without a #5 camalot or you will regret it for pitch 2. The spicy move onto the summit isn't bad at all, just grab the chains and pull yourself up! The tower is short, so 1 70m rope will get you down in one rap.
    By Mark P Thomas
    From: Oakland
    Nov 22, 2012
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I led the P2 OW. Crux of it was extracting my leg as my calf kept getting stuck. Second pitch is much sandier than the first, so I think a lot of people rappel after only doing P1 :-)
    By Hockman
    Feb 19, 2014


    So I've found after doing this climb a few times it's quite nice to double rope rap (70's) straight down to the road from the summit. 2 60's might work as well? Can somebody let me know.

    It's nice to skip the down hike by adding the extra rap.

    Also, 1 70m rope gets you from the summit back down to the ledge easily, as stated.
    By Vincent K
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 27, 2015

    Excessive P2 gear beta: #2 and #3 for lower section, a #4 for the middle, 2 #5s for the offwidth, and a #3 to protect the top out should make it comfortable. You can get a #6 to work at the flare, but it is a little too big. The 2 #5s should negate the need for the #6. Be sure to extend the #3 protecting the topout to let the rope run freer over the bulge below.

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