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Right Arm (10d)- a great climb. Photo by Tony Bubb...
This long varied line haphazardly splits the face to the right of Meat Hooks, a short walk left of where the approach trails meets the Orginal Meat. The 'splitter' crack widens through several pods and offers variation in sizes from the bottom to the top. Keep gear of all sizes at the ready from beginning to end. Akward climbing through the pods sends you straight into difficult thin hands climbing. Use runners to minimize the rope drag on this long and not so straight splitter. Stiff for the grade, but a good line with lots of quality climbing.
I suggest more than others (Bloom): 1x1.0 2x1.5 3x2.0 7x2.5 4x3.0 3x3.5 2x4.0 and runners / long draws.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Nov 29, 2008
this thing was well worth doing, although not the best warm-up. bring extra .75 camalots.
|By Devan Johnson|
Oct 11, 2010
maybe two thirds up it pinches down to green cam for 10-15ft, other than that nice hands are found throughout. Textbook 5.11....
Oct 31, 2011
this route broke my front tooth. harder than Sinestra.
|By Kelsey Sheely|
From: Durango, CO
Feb 27, 2012
This route is definitely a little sandbagged, and that's not just because it stole my gold link cam. Awkward thin hands throughout, that is when it's not ring locks or offwidth. Bloom's suggestions are a little off for protection. In camalot sizes, I'd suggest 1-2 .5s, 3-5 .75s, 6-8 1s, 2-3 2s, 1-2 3s, 1-2 3.5s or 4s.