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Right Arm 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robert Warren
Page Views: 1,418
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jan 13, 2006
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Right Arm (10d)- a great climb. Photo by Tony Bubb...

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Description 

This long varied line haphazardly splits the face to the right of Meat Hooks, a short walk left of where the approach trails meets the Orginal Meat. The 'splitter' crack widens through several pods and offers variation in sizes from the bottom to the top. Keep gear of all sizes at the ready from beginning to end. Akward climbing through the pods sends you straight into difficult thin hands climbing. Use runners to minimize the rope drag on this long and not so straight splitter. Stiff for the grade, but a good line with lots of quality climbing.


Protection 

I suggest more than others (Bloom): 1x1.0 2x1.5 3x2.0 7x2.5 4x3.0 3x3.5 2x4.0 and runners / long draws.



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By Brian Weinstein
Nov 29, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

this thing was well worth doing, although not the best warm-up. bring extra .75 camalots.

By Devan Johnson
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

maybe two thirds up it pinches down to green cam for 10-15ft, other than that nice hands are found throughout. Textbook 5.11....

By Leif
Oct 31, 2011

this route broke my front tooth. harder than Sinestra.

By Kelsey Sheely
From: Durango, CO
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

This route is definitely a little sandbagged, and that's not just because it stole my gold link cam. Awkward thin hands throughout, that is when it's not ring locks or offwidth. Bloom's suggestions are a little off for protection. In camalot sizes, I'd suggest 1-2 .5s, 3-5 .75s, 6-8 1s, 2-3 2s, 1-2 3s, 1-2 3.5s or 4s.