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 ADVANCED
Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Right Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 2001
Season: Faces North
Page Views: 642
Submitted By: Tony B on May 21, 2007

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Right ArÍte.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a good route, and it is fairly long.

Climb intermittent cracks from 0.5-2.5" up a rib of rock to the summit of Wizard Rock. Up top, wander a few meters South to the anchors atop the right-most sport climb on the cliff for a descent or even belay. From that, bolted belay pictures of the second following would be excellent.

Be mindful of possible loose blocks near the top.


Location 

This route starts about 10 meters right of the beginning of 'Snow Crash' on a ledge right of the end of a tree-stump.


Protection 

A mixed rack from nuts to cams. Nothing bigger than 3" used on the F.A. Take some longer slings.



Photos of Right Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Cruising up the arÍte.
Cruising up the arÍte.
Comments on Right Arete Add Comment
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By Tradsplatter
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Beautiful views of Boulder Canyon at the top. Loose blocks are easy to find, be extra careful. Fun climbing, used three smaller tri-cams, handful of nuts, a couple small hexes, and 0.5 - #2 Camalot. Dislodged one softball-sized, portable foothold that meteored to the ground. Belayer is advised to stay well out of rockfall for this route. Rating felt accurate. Plenty of lichen and choss to be had for the connoisseur.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2007

Where is this route in relation to Richard Rossiter's Right Arete? See www.boulderclimbs.com/wizard.html.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2007

"Where is this route in relation to Richard Rossiter's Right Arete?"

Good question. Rossiter says:
"Right Arete 6
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo, 2001. Scramble up and around to the west side of the crag. Follow a norrow rib to the top. Walk off."

I would not have described the climb as being on the West Side, but maybe he would have. Perhaps more elaboration on the matter?

Richard? Are these indeed the same?

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2007

Tony,

The side of Wizard Rock with Christal Ball, Magic Wand, Snow Crash, etc. faces west, not north. Boulder Canyon runs north-south from Bell Buttress to Vampire Rock, as shown in this photo:

Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.


The crags on the east side of the creek, including Solaris, Wizard Rock, Avalon, and The Watermark, are predominantly west facing.

I think Right Arete climbs the prominent, narrow rib of rock right of Snow Crash, at the junction of the west and south faces, as shown in this photo:

Wizard Rock.  The four bolted sport routes are shown in the photo, which was taken from the summit of Avalon.
Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are shown in the photo, which was taken from the summit of Avalon.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is lots of loose rock on this route, but it is avoidable. Tony is correct, you get good pictures from the bolted belay.