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Rifle intro to 5.12 suggestions



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By Greg Twombly
From Conifer, CO
Oct 3, 2011

I'm looking for suggestions for intro to 5.12 routes in Rifle, ideally short 5.12 a or b routes with short crux and good clipping positions. Any suggestions?


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By richard magill
Oct 3, 2011
Mountain Bike Action!

ruckus


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By Dave-o
From Boulder,CO
Oct 3, 2011

I would highly recommend Crime and Punishment, Cardinal Sin, Genesis, or Defenseless Betty as a great first 12 at Rifle.


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By Greg Twombly
From Conifer, CO
Oct 4, 2011

Thanks for the suggestions-I'm planning on the weekend of October 16th.


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By Keith H. North
From Englewood, CO
Oct 4, 2011
A short M4 climb in the School Room @ Ouray

Rukus is super short but in those few feet there is quite a bit of burl.


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By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Oct 4, 2011
Where? Wouldn't you like to know. You have to buy me a beer, then I will tell you.

Ricochet 11+/12A. Westchester wall
Easy-Skankin 12 b. -one of Rifles best. Antiphil wall
lost & found 12.b Meat wall
Crime and Punishment .12a Meat wall
Promise .12c. Ruckman cave
Pistola .12a, Sno cone wall. There will be no chalk on this.Very overlooked and seldom done but still good.
Defenseless Betty .12a project wall
Good luck, these are my favorites of the grade that you seek.


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By Jeremy Kasmann
From Denver, CO
Oct 4, 2011

Other good choices are Fossil Family and Pinch Fest.


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By dbyte
From Carbondale, CO
Oct 5, 2011
I wish I could fly...

All the routes mentioned above are quality, but I don't know if they meet your criteria of "short crux & good clipping positions". Here are some that may fit the bill:

Left El Sapper is only 2 hard moves after 5.10 climbing. It's also short.
Fossil Family has its crux in the 1st 20 feet, after that it's 11b.
Cardinal Sin, though longer & more technical, has decent rests right before & after its crux. It also isn't powerful but techy.
Pinch Fest would be a good 1st 12b, as it's fairly short & the crux isn't long.

I will likely be there that weekend if the weather's decent, & I'll be falling off a 12a or b somewhere. Shoot me a text if you're interested in meeting up.


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By gatch
From denver, co
Oct 5, 2011
little twin owls area, lumpy ridge.  with arms wide open...

crime and punishment (12a). it's 11/11+ to a 12- crux over a bulge. great stem rest right before the crux allows you to get it all back.


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By Greg Twombly
From Conifer, CO
Oct 5, 2011

Thanks dbyte that is exactly what I'm looking for. The guidebook descriptions aren't specific enough. Unfortunately I've had a change of family plan so that weekend is out now.


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