Ridin' the Short Buzz 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet, Grade V |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Jared Hancock, Karla Hancock, Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan |
| Submitted By: | Ben Rollin on Oct 19, 2011 |
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Description This route is the best warm up around. Start on smaller holds and reach to better jugs as you go up. Interesting movements, and the holds only get larger as you climb. Well protected.
Location About 15 feet right of Hot Drama Teacher, on face around the corner from The Dude Abides.
Protection 4 bolts, 2 bolted anchors. ** Since at least November, 2009, the left anchor point has been loose. Currently only one ring to clip/rappel from as well. Right anchor point appears solid however.
| Comments on Ridin' the Short Buzz |
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By S. Neoh
Oct 21, 2012
| As of Oct 2012, the left anchor bolt and hanger move down by a 1/4" under load. The single steel rap ring is attached directly to this hanger. There is a backup chain from the upper hanger to this rap ring. I added a biner to a link in the chain to provide redundancy. The added biner should take more of the load if the rope is threaded through BOTH the rap ring and the added biner.
I have also reported the bad anchor bolt at redriverclimbing.com |
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