Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan (1978)
Page Views: 1,786 total · 13/month
Shared By: Phil York on Nov 7, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Scramble your way up the huge block below the pin stack and set up a belay.

P1: Clip the pin stack and pull some hard moves gaining a relatively better stance above. I would recommend placing a small nut at the start of the traverse from Wild Kingdom and placing a truck hand sized cam a little higher above the nut to protect you and your second , sling it with a 4 foot runner, then down climb a bit and continue on. Traverse out right and clip the bolt making some interesting moves to a jug. Veer up and right through the obvious line, climbing through some very awkward slick quartz. End just below the orange billboard with a splitting crack where you can build a very bomber belay with 3"-2" cams and a comfortable stance. (5.11b)

P2: Climb up into another awkward sequence in the opening crack system. Great gear options and interesting climbing here. Mantle up and you can choose many options on where to go from here. You can continue below Catnip ending at a pin or bail out right to a slung tree in the Hanging Garden; just make sure your second is comfortable making basically a solo traverse. (5.10)

Location Suggest change

Fire Wall, break out right after the pin stack of Wild Kingdom.

Protection Suggest change

A full Moores rack. Singles of all cam sizes, set of stoppers, and some long runners. Most of the route can be clipped short.

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