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Sunshine Wall
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Rip Van Winkle T 
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Riders on the Storm 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: K. Stricker and D. Russell (2/27/09) FFA - K.Stricker and J. Langston (1/1/10)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Jan 1, 2010

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First ascent fun in freak snowstorm.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the first pitch of Rip Van Winkle and set up a belay right below a horizontal crack splitting the wall with medium cams and stoppers. Traverse right along the break, then straight up the thin seam. Surmounting the roofs is the crux, but the crack above is continuously difficult until it meets back up with RVW. Step back right and hand or foot traverse the diagonal crack back right with fun moves to the top.

Location 

This route is on the upper SE face of Sunshine Wall, right of the upper pitch of Rip Van Winkle. Climb to the saddle between SS wall and face via many alternatives or hike around the back side. Climb up the first pitch of RVW and belay on the lower ledge below an obvious horizontal crack splitting the wall.

Protection 

Riders on the Storm has two fixed nuts and two pins through the crux roofs. The rest of the pitch takes two sets of RP's and double cams to 1"(.5 Camalot). Larger cams(up to #3) are helpful for the first pitch and for the belays.


Photos of Riders on the Storm Slideshow Add Photo
Riders follows the faint seam splitting the face right of Rip Van Winkle.
BETA PHOTO: Riders follows the faint seam splitting the face r...
Fighting through the thin upper face.
Fighting through the thin upper face.

Comments on Riders on the Storm Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Jan 1, 2010

Nice job, Kevin. It was good to see you guys up there.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 1, 2010

Indeed, excellent work. We had a cool vantage point watching the presend whip and the true send from Block Tower
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 2, 2010

Great work, fellas!
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 4, 2010

Thanks for the comments, guys, it was great to be up there with you.

This route is unique for the Spires due to the multitude of holds on the face, it is really more of a face climb with natural protection. It is easy to aid through the crux on fixed gear. During the winter months it is best to get on the climb in the morning, as by mid day the sun starts shining in your eyes and it is in the shade in the afternoon.
By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Jan 8, 2010

Looks awesome- well done!