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Lost Eye to the Moon
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D&D 2 T 
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Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm  S 
Zig Zag T 

Riders of the Purple Sage 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tim Standing 2007
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jun 26, 2010  with updates from Kevin Heckeler

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Wesley Fienup climbs Riders of the Purple Sage (5....

Description 

This route is near the center of the Crag and starts right of a low angle crack/corner system. Some bolts are hard to see because they're in pockets.

Protection 

7 bolts to anchor. Lower using a 70 meter rope.


Photos of Riders of the Purple Sage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Riders of the Purple Sage". Photo by Bl...
BETA PHOTO: "Riders of the Purple Sage". Photo by Bl...

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By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

60m rope stretcher. Tie a stopper knot.
7 bolts I believe. Passing the last bolt is frictiony fun (don't cheat right).
By Aaron Slaven
From: Fresno, CA
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Dido on the rope stretcher.
By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 28, 2012

Third on the rope stretcher... Last few bolts are difficult (impossible) to see from below, but they're there.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Crux moves up to the first bolt. Then flakes etc, Then smeary to the anchors. Fun route.
By Stephen Minana
Oct 20, 2014

Nice cruiser of a route, crazy placement of a couple bolts beneath an outer layer of rock. Incredible friction makes it a relaxing slab climb but long enough for a 70 meter rope to be preferable.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 3, 2016

Pretty good route overall, though not nearly as good as Eye for Eye. The rock quality on this one gets worse the higher you climb--it might be preferable to skip the last three bolts and finish in the crack to the right (D&D).

Lowered off with a 70m and had just a few feet of extra rope on either end.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 30, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

There's a lot of hollow sounding plates on this route. Climb gently. ;)

Our 60M did NOT reach the ground, wasn't even close. Only route we had this issue among the many we climbed in our 5 day stay. I was able to get lowered to just below the first bolt in the left crack, then it wasn't too bad (5.3?) down climbing the 15-20 feet. [it appears to be added to the description now, thanks!]

Still a very fun climb, ranks as one of the better routes I did during my stay (it's probably 5.6 fwiw).

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