Riders in the Sky 5.10c/d R
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Bill Schmausser & Andy Kovats |
| Submitted By: | Bill Schmausser on Mar 2, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Goes right up the face to the right of both dead t...
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Description 4 very long pitches, sometimes climbed in 5 by breaking P1 in two.
Pitches (as 4): P1 5.9 14 bolts, P2 5.7 bolts, P3 5.10cR, modest traverse left (the 'R') to two bolts through the crux to a belay. [The R is 5.7, 10.c has good pro], P4 5.10b, bolts to the summit.
Don't let the R scare you away, this, like many of the routes up here, is a superb climb and accessible to any mid 5.10 slab aficionado. All belays have 1/2" bolts. Some people have suggested adding another bolt, and I could do that.
Descent: Raps: 1) rap P4, 2) rap to a station 100 feet down and 70 feet left ot the top of P2, 3) rap to top of I Love a Cigar pitch 1, straight down, 4) rap to ground.
Protection Bolts. A few small cams for some runouts.
2 x 60m for descent.
Spring, 2004.
Immaculate granite.
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Tom leading.
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Dave hiking the excellent, 5.9, first pitch of Rid...
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| Comments on Riders in the Sky |
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By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007
| Admins --FA Bill Schmausser/Andy Kovats. Please associate my account to the FA so I can edit.
Thanks |
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10c PG13
| Only climbed the first pitch and it was great. Not overly bolted but not scary either. |
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c PG13
| A couple of my friends (without computer access) climbed this a few weeks ago and said don't add another bolt to the traverse, it wasn't needed. Neither claim to be slab masters, so I'd take that as a very reasonable suggestion that it isn't necessary; maybe a little spicy, but not dangerous. |
By Bucket Head
Sep 5, 2010
| This is a really fun route and is definitely worth doing. I'd say the first pitch is maybe 10a with sort of a meandering line towards the end. You can sling a tree have way up for additional pro. The second pitch is similar, starts out 5.9+/10a, then eases off a bit to the chains. The third pitch is the business; 5.9 past 4 bolts, then a 10a move left to clip the last bolt before a 20' 5.7 run out traverse up and left. The last move before clipping the 'thank god bolt' is quite exciting, a little mantle type move on a good shelf. From there, it's harder but the pro is right there. Scratch your way up past a few more bolts to the chains. The last pitch is probably technically the second hardest, but for only a move or two at ~10b or so on sharp fingertip holds.
The lack of a bolt along the traverse really sets this route apart from most sport routes and is definitely good for the 'head shape' factor. I wish there were more routes like this - keep it as-is. |
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