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Land that Time Forgot
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Ankar Gate 
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Riders in the Sky 
Solarian 
Temple 19 

Riders in the Sky 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Schmausser & Andy Kovats
Page Views: 1,595
Submitted By: Bill Schmausser on Mar 2, 2007
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Spring, 2004.
Immaculate granite.

Description 

4 very long pitches, sometimes climbed in 5 by breaking P1 in two.

Pitches (as 4): P1 5.9 14 bolts, P2 5.7 bolts, P3 5.10cR, modest traverse left (the 'R') to two bolts through the crux to a belay. [The R is 5.7, 10.c has good pro], P4 5.10b, bolts to the summit.

Don't let the R scare you away, this, like many of the routes up here, is a superb climb and accessible to any mid 5.10 slab aficionado. All belays have 1/2" bolts. Some people have suggested adding another bolt, and I could do that.

Descent: Raps: 1) rap P4, 2) rap to a station 100 feet down and 70 feet left ot the top of P2, 3) rap to top of I Love a Cigar pitch 1, straight down, 4) rap to ground.


Protection 

Bolts. A few small cams for some runouts.

2 x 60m for descent.



Photos of Riders in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Dave hiking the excellent, 5.9, first pitch of Riders.
Dave hiking the excellent, 5.9, first pitch of Rid...
Goes right up the face to the right of both dead trees.
BETA PHOTO: Goes right up the face to the right of both dead t...
Tom leading.
Tom leading.
Starting up the first pitch of RITS, aiming between the tree and the gully. Myc is up and to the right, topping the first pitch of some ~5.8 climb between RITS and Knossos.
Starting up the first pitch of RITS, aiming betwee...
Comments on Riders in the Sky Add Comment
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By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007

Admins --FA Bill Schmausser/Andy Kovats. Please associate my account to the FA so I can edit.

Thanks

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Only climbed the first pitch and it was great. Not overly bolted but not scary either.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

A couple of my friends (without computer access) climbed this a few weeks ago and said don't add another bolt to the traverse, it wasn't needed. Neither claim to be slab masters, so I'd take that as a very reasonable suggestion that it isn't necessary; maybe a little spicy, but not dangerous.

By Bucket Head
Sep 5, 2010

This is a really fun route and is definitely worth doing. I'd say the first pitch is maybe 10a with sort of a meandering line towards the end. You can sling a tree have way up for additional pro. The second pitch is similar, starts out 5.9+/10a, then eases off a bit to the chains. The third pitch is the business; 5.9 past 4 bolts, then a 10a move left to clip the last bolt before a 20' 5.7 run out traverse up and left. The last move before clipping the 'thank god bolt' is quite exciting, a little mantle type move on a good shelf. From there, it's harder but the pro is right there. Scratch your way up past a few more bolts to the chains. The last pitch is probably technically the second hardest, but for only a move or two at ~10b or so on sharp fingertip holds.

The lack of a bolt along the traverse really sets this route apart from most sport routes and is definitely good for the 'head shape' factor. I wish there were more routes like this - keep it as-is.

By Cindy Mitchell
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

Brilliant line. Pitch 2 was incredibly enjoyable.
The start is left of the water streaked, shallow gully. There is a route between Knossos and Riders in the Sky not listed here, so this line is 2 bolt lines left of Knossos.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 21, 2013

Cindy, the route between RITS and Knossos is actually the start of Minoan Maze. They cross at the ledge. I didn't draw it in my picture topo, but there is one of Pete's original topos on the main page.