Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Land that Time Forgot
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankar Gate S 
Black Sheep T 
Cloak of the Wolf S 
I Love a Cigar T 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Knossos S 
Minoan Maze S 
Nazca Line S 
Oklahoma Princess T,S 
Practislab S 
Riders in the Sky S 
Solarian T 
Temple 19 S 

Riders in the Sky 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Bill Schmausser & Andy Kovats
Page Views: 2,170
Submitted By: Bill Schmausser on Mar 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Spring, 2004. Immaculate granite.

Description 

4 very long pitches, sometimes climbed in 5 by breaking P1 in two.

Pitches (as 4): P1 5.9 14 bolts, P2 5.7 bolts, P3 5.10cR, modest traverse left (the 'R') to two bolts through the crux to a belay. [The R is 5.7, 10.c has good pro], P4 5.10b, bolts to the summit.

Don't let the R scare you away, this, like many of the routes up here, is a superb climb and accessible to any mid 5.10 slab aficionado. All belays have 1/2" bolts. Some people have suggested adding another bolt, and I could do that.

Descent: Raps: 1) rap P4, 2) rap to a station 100 feet down and 70 feet left ot the top of P2, 3) rap to top of I Love a Cigar pitch 1, straight down, 4) rap to ground.

Protection 

Bolts. A few small cams for some runouts.

2 x 60m for descent.


Photos of Riders in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the first pitch of RITS, aiming betwee...
Starting up the first pitch of RITS, aiming betwee...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave hiking the excellent, 5.9, first pitch of Rid...
Dave hiking the excellent, 5.9, first pitch of Rid...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom leading.
Tom leading.
Rock Climbing Photo: Goes right up the face to the right of both dead t...
BETA PHOTO: Goes right up the face to the right of both dead t...

Comments on Riders in the Sky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007

Admins --FA Bill Schmausser/Andy Kovats. Please associate my account to the FA so I can edit.

Thanks
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Only climbed the first pitch and it was great. Not overly bolted but not scary either.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

A couple of my friends (without computer access) climbed this a few weeks ago and said don't add another bolt to the traverse, it wasn't needed. Neither claim to be slab masters, so I'd take that as a very reasonable suggestion that it isn't necessary; maybe a little spicy, but not dangerous.
By Bucket Head
Sep 5, 2010

This is a really fun route and is definitely worth doing. I'd say the first pitch is maybe 10a with sort of a meandering line towards the end. You can sling a tree have way up for additional pro. The second pitch is similar, starts out 5.9+/10a, then eases off a bit to the chains. The third pitch is the business; 5.9 past 4 bolts, then a 10a move left to clip the last bolt before a 20' 5.7 run out traverse up and left. The last move before clipping the 'thank god bolt' is quite exciting, a little mantle type move on a good shelf. From there, it's harder but the pro is right there. Scratch your way up past a few more bolts to the chains. The last pitch is probably technically the second hardest, but for only a move or two at ~10b or so on sharp fingertip holds.

The lack of a bolt along the traverse really sets this route apart from most sport routes and is definitely good for the 'head shape' factor. I wish there were more routes like this - keep it as-is.
By Cindy Mitchell
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Brilliant line. Pitch 2 was incredibly enjoyable.
The start is left of the water streaked, shallow gully. There is a route between Knossos and Riders in the Sky not listed here, so this line is 2 bolt lines left of Knossos.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 21, 2013

Cindy, the route between RITS and Knossos is actually the start of Minoan Maze. They cross at the ledge. I didn't draw it in my picture topo, but there is one of Pete's original topos on the main page.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!