|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Joseph Puryear & Stoney Richards|
|Season:||spring and fall, its south facing|
|Submitted By:||Drederek on Nov 21, 2013|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Ride the Lightning||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 6, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The folks who put up the route have an excellent, consise description of it here: cascadeimages.com/cr/tieton/rt...
This is a really fun route, even though I got more adventure than I bargained for on it. If you want the full story, you can read my long-winded trip report here: rocknropenw.com/2014/05/05/rid...
If I did it again, I'd bring 16 draws (half sport quickdraws, half alpine-draws,) and BD C4 cams #0.75 through #4, with doubles of #1, #2, & #3. The first three pitches have chains for rappelling. The remaining pitches end at pairs of bolts without chains, except for the top of pitch 7 where I believe you belay off a tree.
By Tom Beirne
From: Seoul, Korea
Jun 22, 2015
Get your adventure hat: lots of flexing, hollow, or breaking holds on pitch 1/2.
Gear: As described. Leave the C4 #3 and #4 and take triples in C4 #1 and #2.
The crack is spectacular, but the same or higher quality exists at the Bend. Would not recommend following another party on this climb without helmet /sunglasses.
By Nick Drake
Jul 27, 2015
The crack in the dihedral on P2 is really fun and interesting climbing, the corner on P3 is as well. The slab you have to climb to get there is a rather unnerving pile choss though. I lead much blanker, much more run out slab on granite without worry. Each of us spent much longer than expected on the slab leads because we were testing so many flexing and breaking flakes/nubbins. Thankfully it is bolted more like a modern sport climb so any fall wouldn't be bad.
If you had your heart set on an alpine multi-pitch with a bit of adventure, but the weather shut down those plans, then the rainshadow might make this is a decent alternative (that's how we ended up here, Tieton is dry when the west side is wet). However the rock at royal columns, the bend, or lava point is infinitely better.
Note the FA topo shows rap stations at full 60m lengths. From the top of P3 down there are now intermediate rap stations so there is no need for double rope rappels. Watch out for flakes down on the slab pulling your rope though.