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Gold Star Canyon
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Ride the Lightning 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1+ [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Oct 1, 2010

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James working the second pitch.

Description 

Great positioning! Free climbing, aid, a little choss, great exposure, and some good rock. A good outing for sure.

First pitch: is a some loose offwidth to a cool stem between wall and pillar to gain the Ledge. (130 feet)

Second pitch: Some C1+ off the belay to a widening crack, switch crack systems as a crack appears on your right. Watch out for a loose section midway up. 5.10 offwidth to a stance/ledge (70 feet)

Third pitch: Place a piece high up off the belay and pendulum right to a crack system. Climb hands up an ever widening crack to the base of the roof. Grovel up some wideness through the roof. Continue up the wide until a small ledge and a short corner to the top. (5.10+, 110 feet)

All of this could go free fairly easily.


Location 

This route lies on the opposite wall as Factotum. After hiking up the trail on the right side of the granite drainage, keep trending towards the right wall of the Gold Star Canyon. On a clean section of the wall, the large pillar is obvious as is the crack systems that split the wall. Start on the left side of the detached pillar.


Protection 

A double set of cams from really small to #6. It depends on how much you want to aid, how much you want to free. Small/ micro nuts for the first bit on the 2nd pitch. Two double rope raps from the top gets you down.



Photos of Ride the Lightning Slideshow Add Photo
James getting ready for the second lead.
James getting ready for the second lead.
View of second pitch, you can see where you have to trend right.
View of second pitch, you can see where you have t...
Me on the third pitch after the pendulum.
Me on the third pitch after the pendulum.
Early January in Gold Star Canyon.
Early January in Gold Star Canyon.
The way to go.
The way to go.
Everyone loves to jug on cored ropes.
Everyone loves to jug on cored ropes.
View of the first pitch. James Stover rapping down.
View of the first pitch. James Stover rapping down...
James working the second pitch.
James working the second pitch.
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