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Rico Suave Buttress
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Rico Sauve 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 7,329
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (156)
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Rico Suave


Awesome line up the super blunt arete.

The Classic of the area.

Belay from the trail at the base of the arete. Scramble up the boulder the out the airy start to clip the first bolt. Continue more or less straight up with loads of hand-foot matches and balancy moves between jugs that are always just out of reach.


On the obvious blunt orange arete right on the trail mid-buttress.


Bolts to nice rap rings short of huge roof.

Thanks to Nick Stayner for the update!

Photos of Rico Sauve Slideshow Add Photo
E. Lang on Rico
E. Lang on Rico
JB on Rico 10/21/14
JB on Rico 10/21/14

Comments on Rico Sauve Add Comment
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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is the best 10a sport route in the gorge.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jun 6, 2011

Maybe I didn't get this climb, but I thought it had absolutely nothing going for it.
By Brandy Walters
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I lead Rico Suave in the pouring rain which was a first and may have added to the experience. The route was varied and featured and the movements were thought provoking. It had a couple of nice rests to help secure the onsight. Highly recommend.
By Peter Lundgren
Oct 2, 2012

Came here searching for dry rock an a rainy day. A key hold or two were wet at the bottom, but the rest was dry.
By Sharkbarf
Jun 26, 2014

Fun, but pretty average 10a. Don't see what all the hype was about. Upside is that it's always dry as it's covered by a roof. If you're going to Kaymoor for moderates go to Butcher's Branch instead.
By Jacob Sustrich 1
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It's a classic for a reason! We climbed it when it was wet (I thought this guy was supposed to stay dry?), I ended up climbing it to save some draws. The wetness made it pretty nerve wracking, but it was still a lot of fun. Fell once a little below the roof because my goddamned hand just slipped off a wet sloper. Still a little tweaked about that one. Can't wait to try it dry.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Mar 17, 2015

It stays dry when there's a straight downpour- like in the late spring and summer. With misty, wind-driven rain, and with the added water of melting snow runoff, almost everything was wet- even routes like this one that are notoriously dry when everything else is wet. It is a sweet route though.
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