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Climbers on Rick's Route, at San Ysidro Canyon.
This route starts about 30 feet to the right and uphill from the classic Orangahang.
Climb straight up a shallow corner past a large tuft of grass and clip a bolt. From the bolt, step straight left onto sloping holds. Continue traversing left under a small overhang (crux). At the far left end of the overhang is a thank-God-hold that makes pulling up and over the roof a straight-forward and fun endeavor.
After gaining a small ledge, traverse back right into an obvious wide crack. Climb this crack until it ends. Clip a bolt and pull over a small bulge onto sloping face holds. Follow these sloping holds and a series of large holes up and left to the large oak tree which can be tied as an anchor.
Note: after clipping the second bolt, the original line climbed up and right to finish on Fine Line. This is considerably harder (perhaps 5.9) though less run-out.
2 bolts--the crack between these two might take some small gear. The top half of the route (as usually climbed) has no protection.
In general this route is extremely run-out. Even the crux bulge, down low, is poorly protected. A fall on the first bolt could result in a sprained ankle or worse.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 5, 2006
Another variation to this route is to climb nearly straight up (and a little left) from the first bolt, forgoing the traverse left beneath a small overhang. This variation feels about 5.9+ by San Ysidro standards.
|By Amy Hadden|
Mar 24, 2010
Definitely echoing the sprained ankle bewareness. I felt really comfortable on Great Race around the corner, but I took a fall on the first bolt of Rick's Route and massively sprained my ankle. So watch out pulling over the bulge, especially if you're short.
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.8+ PG13
Maybe unnecessary, but when you don't know what to expect, slinging the rock formation above the bulge above the first bolt (pockets with thin tunnel connecting them) helps ease fear. It's a bit tricky to thread; I hitched a sling to a wired nut, dropped that nut through the top, and needled another wired nut through the bottom to grab it and pull it through. There is really only 1 very-runout section on this route (above the 2nd bolt I think), other than that, there is some decent pro. Use long runners to reduce rope drag.