Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route"
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.6 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | John Rahhal, Bob Marvin, & Scott McBride 1976 |
Page Views: | 1,194 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Craig Childre on Sep 22, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Good climbing with some weird moves. Can be a single pitch but to reduce rope drag it is best to break into two. Protectet the traverse for your second.
Location
Start up the obvious crack on right of McBride's Mind. Move left and rebelay. Then zig zag up, pick your pleasure. Rap from Crazy Alice station.
History
This route was named 'Flying Grasshopper' originally with three starts and three finishes.
Sourced from Souther Exposure Guidebook
Sourced from Souther Exposure Guidebook
Alternate routes and ratings
Three starts and three finishes. So you can pick one that suits your skill level.
Left to right.
Start A: (5.8) Jam the fist crack right of "Mcbride's Mind" up onto a ledge.
Start B: (5.7) Take a short corner leading into a small chimney ten feet right of the fist crack.
Start C: (5.8) Mantle up a series of overhanging blocks to the right of the chimney.
Traverse right at the horizontal crack/ledge about 15 feet to a grassy ledge and traverse right again into the alcove, often used to set an anchor.
Finish D: (5.7) Follow the horizontal crack right to a ledge below a short slab, climb on large holds to ledges leading to the top.
Finish E: (5.8) Chimney up the slot to a small ledge, step right and climb a short finger crack to join the ledge finish with option 'D'.
Finish F: (5.9) Follow the small ledge from the alcove out onto the face then follow the cracks to the right and up.
Left to right.
Start A: (5.8) Jam the fist crack right of "Mcbride's Mind" up onto a ledge.
Start B: (5.7) Take a short corner leading into a small chimney ten feet right of the fist crack.
Start C: (5.8) Mantle up a series of overhanging blocks to the right of the chimney.
Traverse right at the horizontal crack/ledge about 15 feet to a grassy ledge and traverse right again into the alcove, often used to set an anchor.
Finish D: (5.7) Follow the horizontal crack right to a ledge below a short slab, climb on large holds to ledges leading to the top.
Finish E: (5.8) Chimney up the slot to a small ledge, step right and climb a short finger crack to join the ledge finish with option 'D'.
Finish F: (5.9) Follow the small ledge from the alcove out onto the face then follow the cracks to the right and up.
Photos
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